Friday, 30 June 2023

Meet the Neighbours: Asiatown Houston

Think of Asian enclaves in America, and the Chinatowns of New York and San Francisco might come to mind. But that would be doing Houston a disservice. It might surprise you to know that the biggest city in Texas is also one of America’s most ethnically diverse. And its Asiatown is duly expansive – stretching some 15km2 around Bellaire Boulevard in Southwest Houston, and home to hundreds of Asian supermarkets, restaurants, teahouses, temples, salons, travel agencies, auto repair shops and more. 

This present-day neighbourhood took off in the early 2000s as Asian immigrants were slowly priced out of Downtown, where the original Chinatown had formed in the 70s. At the time, many of the businesses on Bellaire were budget-friendly mom-and-pop Chinese and Vietnamese markets and restaurants – like the cavernous Hong Kong City Mall and Kim Son buffet and dim sum parlor. But today, you’ll also find modern Asian restaurants along with those offering Taiwanese, Korean, Thai and Filipino fare. 

Here we meet some of Asiatown’s newest entrepreneurs, as well as a few diehards – and get their top restaurant recommendations, of course.

Asiatown’s Hong Kong City Mall. Photo: Johnny Luu

Mike Tran

Chef-owner, Mein, Tiger Den, Toukei Izakaya, Ohn Korean Eatery, Ishin Udon, BLKDog Coffee

Recent years have witnessed a boom of modern, second-generation restaurants in Asiatown. Leading the movement is Mike Tran, a Cambodian-Chinese immigrant and chef who owns several businesses including Mein, a modern Cantonese restaurant, and Tiger Den, a Japanese ramen shop. Having lived in the area for nearly three decades, Tran has witnessed its dynamic growth firsthand. 

“As an immigrant, I found myself in Asiatown since an early age, looking for what I grew up with,” Tran says. “I’ve been a local for over 29 years and I’ve seen the area go from its humble beginnings to a more stylish, vibrant area, while still maintaining its honest, hard-working values.” 

I’ve seen the area go from its humble beginnings to a more stylish, vibrant area, while still maintaining its honest, hard-working values

Tran’s flagship restaurant, Mein, is a critical darling among Houston foodies. It’s known for its inventive take on Cantonese food – inspired by Tran’s own diverse heritage –  and decor that pays homage to Shanghai’s golden age. Located on Corporate Drive, the restaurant shares a strip mall with several of the other businesses within Tran’s pan-Asian empire including Ohn Korean Eatery; a Korean soju bar and gastropub; Toukei, a modern izakaya; Ishin, a udon bar; and BLKDog Coffee, a cute café. 

“There are some great grocery stores in the area,” Tran says, nodding to the likes of Viet Hoa International Foods, Welcome Food Center, and H Mart. “It’s hard for me to pick a favourite because they all excel at different things, whether it’s vegetables, hard-to-find herbs and spices or specialty cuts of meat and seafood.” 

Grace and Leo Xia

Co-owners, Hongdae 33 and Duck ‘N Bao

For many entrepreneurs, setting up shop in Asiatown was a way to connect to their roots. Grace Xia, Beijing-born owner of the new Korean BBQ hotspot Hongdae 33 and Peking duck specialist Duck ‘N Bao, shares that she and her husband and business partner Leo Xia, who is from Chengdu, frequently visited the area for a taste of home. 

“Whenever we miss our hometown, we’d head to Asiatown to find these familiar flavours that help heal our homesickness,” Xia explains. “Asiatown includes a mall, supermarkets, shopping centers, restaurants, milk tea shops and bakeries, so people can come to one center to get everything they want at the same time.”  

She adds that the couple’s go-to restaurant is Ma Lu Bian in Diho Square, which offers bian, the beloved skewer-style hot pot dish: “Bian is a trendy skewer hot pot restaurant that has recently attained cult-level popularity. It is from my husband’s hometown of Chengdu, and he has had it since he was a little kid.” 

Hongdae 33’s Korean BBQ spread. Photo: Jenn Duncan

John Nguyen

Owner, Cajun Kitchen 

Beyond traditional foods, Houston’s Asiatown is known as the birthplace of the now world-renowned Viet-Cajun cuisine – a modern hybrid style created by Vietnamese refugees in the Gulf Coast. This fusion cooking style applies the ethos of Southeast Asian seafood boils to local crawfish. Though crawfish comes from Louisiana, it was in Houston that it extended its reach into the mainstream.

John Nguyen, owner of the beloved Cajun Kitchen on Wilcrest, has been one of the driving forces behind the booming popularity of the cuisine. Originally from Norway, Nguyen grew up eating Viet-Cajun crawfish at home due to the fact that many of his mother’s relatives lived in Louisiana. In 2013, seeking a break from his corporate job, he took over Cajun Kitchen from its original owners, who first opened the restaurant in 2005. 

“The Viet-Cajun trend has just exploded on the national food scene. From being concentrated in Houston’s Asiatown, it has now spread all over Houston, Texas and many other cities and states that are not even that close to Louisiana,” Nguyen notes. “It is just amazing how this one seafood dish has been so widely embraced everywhere. Heck, even McCormicks has created their own Viet-Cajun spice blend for the masses.” 

Beyond Viet-Cajun, Nguyen says he frequents many other businesses in the area for traditional Asian food. “If I’m craving something fast, like a banh mi, my go-to spots are Thim Hing, Don’s Cafe or Alpha Bakery,” he says. “If you’re looking for Vietnamese snacks and desserts like sticky rice, che or less known things like banh beo, banh duc, and banh gio, check out Duc Phuong. It’s a super popular place that makes everything fresh daily and in limited amounts.” 

Orasinee Ratanaporn

Owner, Thai Spice Express and Zapvor by Thai Spice 

Originally from Thailand, Orasinee Ratanaporn became one of the pioneers of the Asiatown neighbourhood when she opened back in 1983 (known as Thai Spice Express since 1996). Today, she primarily oversees her latest restaurant, Zapvor by Thai Spice, in the nearby suburb Sugar Land, but she considers herself a tried-and-true Asiatown local. 

“I’m still an Asiatown person – I’m here every day to eat, and to go to my bank,” she says. “I love that I can find every kind of Asian food here, and they’re opening many more restaurants. It’s still very exciting every time I walk around and find something new.” 

Ratanaporn’s list of favourite restaurants is long, but her standouts include Banana Leaf for Malaysian food, Spicy Hunan for Chinese food and her all-time favourite Confucius Seafood Restaurant. “If you first order two entrees, you can order a lobster special for something like $40,” she advises. “It’s a great value and you can have the lobsters cooked to your liking.” She also shouts out to the diverse eats at Dun Huang Plaza, a sprawling bi-level strip mall. 

As for plans to return to Asiatown, Ratanaporn says she has some ideas for the near future. “Depending on the lease, I’m thinking of going back to Thai Spice Express this year – we still have our diehard customers, but we are hoping to modernise since the neighbourhood is attracting so many new, young people who are interested in Asian food.” 

For more information on Singapore Airlines flights to Houston, click here.

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Wednesday, 28 June 2023

SugarSand

Produced by SilverKris for SugarSand

More than just a hidden gem on Seminyak’s vibrant beachfront, SugarSand is also a haven for culinary delights and relaxation. Nestled within the luxurious Hotel Indigo Bali Seminyak Beach, this trendy restaurant exhibits a blend of Indonesian and Japanese designs and intricate details inspired by traditional Balinese boats. The first level is distinguished by an expansive infinity pool while the second-floor lounge offers panoramic ocean views. Holding court in the kitchen is Chef Syamsul Rizal, who brings a wealth of experience from renowned establishments like Nobu and Zuma. The menu highlights modern Japanese dishes crafted with locally sourced ingredients. Guests can also enjoy innovative cocktails created by head mixologist Dewa Ari.

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Conservation in the concrete jungle: Walking on Dubais wild side

Think of the United Arab Emirates (UAE), and glitzy malls, Michelin-starred restaurants and seven-star hotels usually come to mind. But this year, which the UAE has declared the Year of Sustainability, nature conservation is front of mind for the region.

Initiatives such as the National Day Mangrove Project, back in May, saw all seven Emirates commencing a mangrove-planting drive to strengthen the land’s “green lungs”, while the SeaWorld Research and Rescue – the region’s first dedicated marine research, rescue, rehabilitation and return facility – just opened its doors in late May. Meanwhile, Dubai prepares to host the UN Climate Change Conference in November.

That’s not all – turtle conservation and mangrove centres in Abu Dhabi, Dubai and Sharjah make it possible for travellers to connect with nature, even in the middle of the UAE’s glittering concrete jungles, and all with a five-star Emirati flair. 

Guest turtles at Dubai’s luxury hotels

Two turtles swim leisurely in the lagoons of the Jumeirah al Naseem, the beachfront hotel adjacent to iconic luxury hotel Burj al Arab. In this sprawling property, marine turtles too are residents. 

This is the Dubai Turtle Rehabilitation project of the Jumeirah Group of hotels, which rescues and rehabilitates turtles in trouble – some of which are critically endangered. Marine turtles face several threats in the Gulf, not only due to run-ins with boats and fishing nets, but also from ingesting marine plastics and abnormal barnacle growth. 

Barbara Lang-Lenton with turtle. Photo: Barbara Lang-Lenton

“We feed and tend to them, stitch back the carapaces that have been damaged by boat collisions and eventually, when they are fully fit, release them into the sea,” explains Barbara Lang-Lenton, director of the Jumeirah Group-funded project. “What we do here has a global impact because sea turtles are migratory species. After they’re released at Jumeirah al Naseem, they go on and travel the world and do what they need to do.” 

It’s crazy to think that there are more guests in the Jumeirah hotels at the moment than there are hawksbills in the wild

The lagoon has several recovering individuals destined for such a globetrotting life, as well as three permanent residents – Chewbacca, named because of many blistering barnacles on its carapace; Humpty, whose carapace is humped because of an old injury; and Dumpty, the friendliest of the three. Unfit to return to the sea, these three live the high life in Jumeirah. Everyday at 11am, visitors help feed them salad and fish while listening to Lang-Lenton share about the project.

Interacting with the rescued turtles and watching them be released into the sea has a profound impact on visitors, Lang-Lenton shares. “It’s crazy to think that there are more guests in the Jumeirah hotels at the moment than there are hawksbills in the wild,” she recalls one of them saying. 

Releasing a turtle back into the wild. Photo: Christophe Chellapermal

Sun, sand and Sharjah’s mangroves

For those planning to venture beyond Dubai, the Khor Kalba Mangrove Centre in Sharjah is a two-hour drive east from downtown, on the opposite coast (Dubai taxis and the rideshare app Careem offer competitive rates). This mangrove park is part of the Khor Kalba Conservation Reserve, which also encompasses the Khor Kalba Bird of Prey Centre, home to falcons, the Al Hefaiyah Mountain Conservation Centre, ideal for scenic hikes; and the Al Hafiya Picnic Park. The reserve only began welcoming guests once more in 2021, after being closed to the public for 10 years. Its lush ecosystem is home to diverse wildlife, including white-collared kingfishers and the majestic oryx – large antelopes with long, spear-like horns.  

The sounds of traffic and construction, so ubiquitous in the UAE, fade as you enter the mangrove forest. A raised boardwalk offers intimate glimpses inside the mangroves and the plethora of unusual creatures they provide habitat for – mangrove crabs, sea cucumbers, starfish as well as snapping shrimp, tiny creatures whose oversized claws create shockwaves that sound like fireworks. We linger in the shade of the mangroves, mesmerised by the salt crystallising on the swirls of sand and sightings of mudskippers that dart around the sandy forest floor.  

Mangroves, or qurm in Arabic, make up almost 96 miles of the UAE’s coastline. Of the UAE’s 13 key mangrove sites, Khor Kalba is also a designated Ramsar site, a wetland recognised for its international importance. This boardwalk through these 300-year-old salt-encrusted mangroves, is but one way to experience these vital “green lungs” of the city – visitors may also kayak or paddle-board along the exterior of the mangrove forests through organised tours. 

Khor Kalba Mangrove Centre. Photo: Shutterstock

Golden hour in Abu Dhabi’s Jubail Mangrove Park 

As the golden hour approaches, we head to Abu Dhabi’s Jubail Mangrove Park. A striking distance from the far more famous Louvre Abu Dhabi, the dense forest stretches for miles on end, and seems like another world altogether. A boardwalk over a mile long takes us deep into the forest, where pristine waters glitter and fresh shoots poke out from the sand.

This is a hopeful sign as mangroves are not easily restored once they deteriorate. Without their roots to anchor the soil, the tides quickly erode the land and reshape the coastline, making it difficult, if not impossible for them to regenerate. In winter and spring, there are regular planting drives where visitors can plant mangrove seedlings, to extend the forest cover as much as possible. 

Jubail Mangrove Park. Photo: Jubail Island

These ecosystems offer a host of benefits to Abu Dhabi and the UAE as a whole, including carbon sequestration, coastal protection, biodiversity support and water quality improvement. All this goes a long way towards contributing to the overall health of the environment and UAE coastline. 

“UAE’s mangroves are that much more interesting because you don’t expect to see them here,” points out Dr Percy Fernandez, passionate wildlife photographer and head of the School of Media and Communication at Manipal University. A regular birder in the UAE since 2017, Fernandez notes an uptick in the number and diversity of bird sightings here over the past five years – as well as a simultaneous increase in number of bird-watchers. 

“We’ll now see summer migrants like the Eurasian turtle dove and the blue-cheeked bee-eater, which come here to breed from May to June,” he says. According to the UAE bird checklist, the country recorded 300 species till the early 90s. Today, there are 468, of which 68% are migratory. 

“Much of this is thanks to the UAE’s initiatives to develop freshwater lakes and canals, and increase green cover by planting trees and conserving the mangroves,” he says. “This has not only been great for the environment, but has also given locals and visitors alike a beautiful, wild respite from the city.” 

Back on the highway to Dubai from Jubail, the lights of Abu Dhabi’s busy airport twinkle in the distance. Construction cranes, so ubiquitous across the UAE, ply back and forth, signifying the birth of yet another plush – and mangrove-facing – real estate development.

From the road, we spot kayakers heading back to the shore, their torch casting a spotlight on the still water. Then it dims and fades, and night comes gently to the lush estuary. 

To learn more about Singapore Airlines’ flight service to Dubai, visit the official website.

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Monday, 26 June 2023

Raffles City Singapore

Produced by SilverKris for Raffles City Singapore

Shop to your heart’s content at Raffles City Singapore, strategically located directly above the City Hall interchange station. Spanning across five floors and offering over 200 stores in fashion and beauty, dining and lifestyle, there’s something for everyone. Timepiece collectors may stop by at Chopard and Rolex while fashion fans should pay a visit to Kate Spade New York and COS for the latest trends. Meanwhile, the makeup and fragrance collections at Chanel, Givenchy and Acqua di Parma will satisfy avid beauty lovers and fragrance connoisseurs. If you need to rest your feet, head to the tourist lounge on Level 65 of the Swissôtel The Stamford to enjoy coffee and light bites while taking in panoramic views of Singapore. You can also take advantage of the bag drop service that allows you to jump right back into your retail therapy.

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Wednesday, 21 June 2023

5 of the worlds quietest places for a dose of calm

Coping with the cacophony of city living can be challenging, especially as life adjusts back to pre-pandemic rhythms. Things often aren’t any better when we’re on vacation in other cities, and travellers must go out of their way to find respite. As silence becomes an increasingly rare commodity – especially for urbanites – organisations such as Quiet Parks International and Noise Pollution Clearinghouse are stepping in to identify and preserve places of peace and quiet around the world.

Here are five places that you can find respite in when everyday construction and crowds get to be too much: 

1. Yangmingshan National Park, Taipei

The world’s first Urban Quiet Park

Acoustic appeal: Though Yangmingshan National Park isn’t entirely silent, its sounds are almost entirely natural despite it being just 10 kilometres north of Taipei. The Soundscape Association of Taiwan has worked with park authorities to preserve both the low noise levels and so-called bio-acoustics, creating designated Quiet Trails where visitors can enjoy the chorus produced by frogs, birds and cicadas (which rarely exceed 30dB, the equivalent of a low whisper). The park’s quietest spot is perhaps Menghuan Pond, whose lush landscape is as much a sight for sore eyes as it is a balm for the ears. But don’t just take our word for it: Quiet Parks International, which designates Urban Quiet Parks around the world, certified Yangmingshan as the world’s first Urban Quiet Park in 2020.

Stay at: The W Hotel Taipei in Taipei’s Xinyi District. You’ll have easy access to both the city centre and the Hushan Mountain Trail, a short walk from the hotel. 

While you’re there: Stop by Cama Coffee Roasters, a gorgeous café with a lovely Japanese-style garden a short drive south from Yangmingshan – the perfect pit stop before heading back to the city.

Yangmingshan National Park. Photo: Taiwan Tourism Board

2. Zurich, Switzerland

The quietest city in the world 

Acoustic appeal: When it comes to cities, it doesn’t get quieter than Zurich. That’s according to German company Mimi Hearing Technologies, which compiled statistics from the World Health Organisation as well as data drawn from 200,000 participants in 50 locations worldwide to find the city with the least incidence of noise pollution. Recently, new speed limits were introduced in Zurich’s centre to reduce noise levels, and noise-reducing asphalt and sound barriers can now be found throughout this city, with its mediaeval old town, forested parks and backdrop of snow-capped peaks.

Stay at: Book a room at the Dolder Grand, a five-star hilltop hotel surrounded by forests where you’ll enjoy spectacular views of the Swiss Alps.

While you’re there: Pair your peace with a dose of serenity at the city’s beautiful Grossmünster church, which was built in the 1200s and is famous for its stained glass and Romanesque crypt.

Zurich. Photo: Switzerland Tourism

3. Hampstead Heath, London, United Kingdom

Where peace and quiet is enforced by the police

Acoustic appeal: Hampstead Heath became Europe’s first Urban Quiet Park in 2021. This sprawling expanse lies just kilometres from London’s bustling city centre and was once Henry VIII’s hunting grounds. Thanks to the Hampstead Heath Act of 1871, which decreed that “the Board shall forever keep the Heath open, unenclosed and unbuilt on,” it’s an idyllic grazing ground that Londoners have enjoyed for centuries. Its most famous fans have included writer CS Lewis, for whom the park was inspiration for The Lion, The Witch and The Wardrobe. Covering 320 hectares of meadows, woodland, hills and ponds, it’s home to several rare species (including the iridescent jewel beetle). It’s also large enough to have its own police force, which is tasked with enforcing various noise-reducing laws, including bans on drones and motorised vehicles.

Stay at: Cosy La Gaffe Hotel, a charming family-run guesthouse mere minutes away from Hampstead Heath that’s also well connected to central London. 

While you’re there: Indulge in some quiet reflection at Kenwood House, an English Heritage property in the heart of Hampstead Heath. Head inside to admire masterpieces by big name artists the likes of Vermeer, Rembrandt and Constable.

Hampstead Heath. Photo: Quiet Parks International and Carlos Fresneda

4. Parc del Montnegre i el Corredor, Barcelona, Spain

The ultimate forest bathing destination

Acoustic appeal: Parc del Montnegre i el Corredor is best described as quiet, with a hint of animal acoustics, courtesy of the wildlife which lives in this 15,000-hectare chunk of greenery wedged between two massifs in the Catalan coastal mountain range. The trees in Spain’s first Urban Quiet Park, 30 kilometres north of Barcelona, can take some of the credit – 95 percent of the park is forested, and these vast swathes of cork oaks and stone pines muffle noise. Not convinced about trees’ sound-smothering qualities? Consider this: researchers at North Carolina State University recently placed a 30-metre-long row of 13-metre-tall trees alongside a highway. The result? Noise levels were reduced by 50 percent. 

Stay at: Barcelona’s El Palace Hotel, which features a gorgeous rooftop garden full of secret hiding spots and a solarium from which to take in a stunning view of the city. 

While you’re there: Take the time to explore Parc del Montnegre i el Corredor’s hiking trails. For something easy, we recommend the 2.1-kilometre Les Planes del Corredor circular route, which has stunning mountain views. For hardcore hikers, there’s the 9.8-kilometre Can Bosch route, lined with ancient fountains and mediaeval ruins. 

Photo: Parc del Montnegre i el Corredor and heikefreire.com

5. Olympic National Park, Washington, United States

The most silent square inch in the world 

Acoustic appeal: Olympic National Park is so quiet that sound recording specialist Gordon Hempton, who travelled around America recording noise levels, declared it to be America’s quietest place. The exact location, dubbed One Square Inch of Silence, is marked with a red stone. You’ll find it in the centre of the park, which is an easy two-hour drive from Seattle. Hempton created the One Square Inch of Silence project to raise awareness of our need for silence, and to ensure the park stays free from noise pollution. And it’s working – aeroplane pilots whom Hempton spoke to shared that they’ve made minor increments to flight routes in order to avoid flying over the One Square Inch of Silence. 

Stay at: The Olympic National Park Log Cabin Resort. You’ll avoid the crowds and have easy access to the park’s best bits.

While you’re there: Keep an eye out for the park’s Roosevelt elks. Named in honour of President Theodore Roosevelt, they are North America’s largest elk subspecies. 

Hoh Rainforest in Olympic National Park. Photo: Washington State Tourism

To learn more about Singapore Airlines flights to the abovementioned destinations, visit the official website.

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