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In its heyday, the 1897 the Moorish Sultan Abdul Samad Building served as government offices to the city. Under the careful care of Khazanah Nasional, it was very recently restored, now displaying its “blood and bricks walls”, arches and copper-clad domes in all its glory. For the full effect, enjoy the façade from the Merdeka Square, stroll its corridors and gardens, and stop for a drink in the café. Visit in the later morning or after 5pm to escape the hottest part of the day.
Running from the 75th to the 114th floor of the Merdeka 118 building, Park Hyatt Kuala Lumpur offers jaw-dropping views of the city and some of its most plush accommodations. It is ideally situated for guests to explore the sights and sounds of Chinatown or downtown KL, while main shopping areas and attractions are a quick MRT or Grab ride away. Be sure to check out their 99th-floor spa designed to align the body’s natural circadian rhythms with sunrise and sunset.
In this evocative, first-person column exploring a singular place, writer Andy Hill journeys through Bali’s capital of Denpasar giving readers a taste of the sights, sounds and vibes of its less well-known areas.
I set out to walk Bali’s capital of Denpasar without a plan. No fixed goal, no dry itinerary, just the mildly romantic notion that walking is the best way to understand how a city actually functions. Denpasar, unlike some other more touristy spots in this part of the world, won’t bend over backwards for visitors. You move with it, or you fall out of step.
My day starts at Lapangan Puputan Badung, a broad green square that feels like the city’s shared front lawn. Joggers loop the field, while students cut diagonally across, fixated on their phones. A chessboard has been set up near the pavement, and two men lean over an opening gambit, squabbling amiably as the traffic surges in formation behind them. It’s tempting to linger, but a temple catches my eye, and I push on.
Pasar Badung offers a multitude of stalls selling everything from fresh produce to fashion. Photo: Shutterstock.com
I leave the park and cross the road. This small temple is tucked behind a low wall and a simple gate. Inside, sandals shuffle over stone as worshippers move through the courtyard with baskets of flowers and rice. Incense spirals upwards. A bell rings once and then again. Outside, a vendor lines up bottled drinks on a folding table, serving passing trade on motorcycles, refilling his cool box as horns blare inches away.
The smell of frying oil and the chatter of bargaining pull me towards the river. Pasar Badung rises ahead, a stacked hive of stalls and voices. The pavement out front is a shifting obstacle course of motorbikes, sacks of chillies and delivery carts. Inside, the air thickens with fish, spice and, somehow, exhaust. Fresh produce and seafood below, flowers, fabrics and household goods above, with escalators carrying shoppers between floors. A stallholder presses a sliver of unfamiliar fruit into my hand, watching intently to see what I make of it.
Jalan Gajah Mada offers a mix of traditional stores and local eats. Photo: Shutterstock.com
Back on Jalan Gajah Mada, hardware shops spill brooms, buckets and coils of rope onto the pavement. Fabric stores hang long stripes of batik and lace in the shade. Between them, tiny warung kitchens push out steam and smoke from spaces no wider than a doorway: broth, charcoal, something sweet and fried. Every few storefronts, a small shrine hosts a fresh floral offering. These appear all over Denpasar, placed daily at thresholds and street corners, part of a routine rather than a display. A delivery rider waits while a short prayer finishes, helmet still on, engine idling. When it’s done, he pulls away, and traffic closes the gap.
At the river, I pause under a bridge on the walkway. Benches line the bank. Teenagers sit shoulder to shoulder over phone screens, thumbs swiping in sync. Couples share snacks from paper bags. Children test the reach of a nearby fountain, squealing when the droplets catch them. The water churns slowly below, breaking the surface into fragments of reflection. I buy a satay skewer from a stall and eat it leaning on the rail, watching scooters thread through the heat on the road above.
The afternoon presses down. At some corners the pavement vanishes and I pick my way between parked scooters before it returns. Shopfronts darken for short closures, then reopen. Fresh offerings appear where earlier ones have been flattened underfoot or swept into neat piles at the edge of the pavement.
The busy-ness of Denpasar is still pepper with traditional Balinese architecture. Photo: Shutterstock.com
By late afternoon, my route drifts back towards Puputan. The park is still there, but the cast has changed. Where keep-fit mums stretched in the morning, a football game now gathers pace, boys chasing a scruffy ball across the grass. Children clamber up the edges of a statue base. Couples lean together on benches, heads close. Traffic still rings the perimeter, but the light has softened and the heat has loosened its grip.
I haven’t “done” Denpasar in any official sense. I haven’t collected sights or chased photo opportunities. I’ve walked, eaten, paused and allowed myself to experience life as it’s lived, letting the city set the pace. No doubt that chessboard is still around somewhere, the game moved on.
Written by: Andy Hill
For more information on Singapore Airlines flights to Sydney, visit singaporeair.com.
Driven by a desire to build an iconic dining destination in the city that shaped his career, chef André Chiang describes his latest venture, 1887 by André, as a “love letter” to Singapore. The fine dining establishment which opened in March this year at Raffles Hotel marks the celebrated chef’s longawaited return to Singapore.
He had shuttered his two-Michelin-starred Restaurant André in 2018 and brought his acclaimed Taipei-based RAW to a close in 2014, on its 10th anniversary. Now Chiang’s reappearance on the local circuit feels like a full-circle moment.
The opening of 1887 by Andre is a full-circle moment for the chef. Photo: 1887 by Andre
“Returning to Singapore feels deeply personal; it is where I grew as a chef, found my community and forged my philosophy.
It is a city defined by its multicultural influences, openness to the world and deep respect for craft – qualities that continue to inspire how I cook today,” says Chiang. Despite the many closures in the local food and beverage industry, Chiang remains optimistic that the time is right.
He says, “Diners are no longer looking for spectacle; they are looking for meaning, clarity and continuity. I believe the timing is right to introduce something timeless yet exciting and closely connected to our evolving lifestyles and expectations.”
Le Vert Verdant Forest. Photo: 1887 by Andre
1887 by André is set to be Raffles Hotel’s most ambitious culinary endeavour, drawing inspiration from the hotel’s 139-year history. Guests can expect dishes crafted from locally sourced and cultivated ingredients, while the dining service evokes Victorian-era rituals – most notably through the use of an original, hundred year-old silver beef wagon and antique silverware.
The restaurant’s interior has been transformed into an elegant formal dining room, featuring marble and wood, alongside palm trees and punkahs (cloth fans) that reflect the region’s tropical climate.
“By drawing inspiration from Raffles Hotel Singapore’s storied past and the city’s multicultural roots, the restaurant transforms cuisine into thoughtful storytelling, by valuing clarity, craftsmanship and lasting impact over fleeting novelty,” says Chiang
For more information on Singapore Airlines’ flights to Singapore, visit singaporeair.com.
From beautifully curated hampers to timeless jewellery and indulgent haircare, these thoughtful picks are designed to delight, pamper and be cherished long after Mother’s Day. Whether you are celebrating together or from afar, each gift brings a touch of care, meaning and everyday luxury to the occasion.
1. Everyday self-care for mums and dads
Give mum the gift of healthier, stronger hair with elihe laboratories’ Bioscience Duo, a refined two-step system developed in Singapore. Pairing a gentle shampoo with a lightweight regenerative ampoule, it supports scalp health as the foundation for fuller-looking hair.
Powered by advanced bioactive ingredients, it helps protect against daily stressors such as pollution and ageing, taking a preventative, drug-free approach to long-term hair wellness. Simple and effective, it fits effortlessly into busy routines, making it a thoughtful gift for mums and dads alike, just in time for Father’s Day.
elihe laboratories’ Bioscience Duo supports healthier, fuller-looking hair with ease
2. A thoughtful Mother’s Day hamper
Elevate Mother’s Day gifting with a beautifully curated hamper from Singapore-based The Hamper Story. Each hamper is thoughtfully assembled with international gourmet delicacies, premium wines and artisanal treats, designed to delight before it is even opened.
More than just a gift, these elegant hampers are crafted to celebrate meaningful moments and heartfelt connections, making them a thoughtful way to show mum just how much she means.
A beautifully curated hamper from The Hamper Story, crafted for meaningful gifting
3. A gift she’ll treasure forever
Celebrate mum with a piece from POH HENG, a heritage Singapore jewellery brand founded in 1948. Known for its craftsmanship and timeless design, each piece is thoughtfully created to mark both life’s milestones and everyday moments. Blending traditional artistry with contemporary elegance, POHHENG’s jewellery is designed to be worn, loved and cherished across generations, making it a meaningful gift she will treasure for years to come.