Wednesday, 15 January 2025

Where chefs eat: Somma’s Mirko Febbrile

There’s no cooler chef on the island right now than Mirko Febbrile, a native of the Puglia region in southern Italy. His passion for food (and good times) is infectious, and in the 11 years he’s spent in Singapore, Febbrile has helmed the kitchen at lauded restaurant Braci (and helped them gain a Michelin star), created a pasta hawker collaboration that sold out during lockdown, and launched his first restaurant, Fico, in 2023 to instant acclaim.

The casual Italian restaurant at East Coast Park is the epitome of la dolce vita, and it has inspired fevered queues. While it’s still wise to book ahead, it’s easier to try the sumptuous focaccina (Italian flatbread), delicious handmade pasta and classic Puglian street food without a reservation by going to the restaurant’s side kiosk. The Fico team also offers Rent-A-Picnic bundles that come with picnic baskets and mats – perfect for a low-key date by the coast.

In late 2024, Febbrile unveiled Somma in a soaring space atop New Bahru, a new lifestyle enclave occupying a former high school campus. Somma in Italian means “sum”, and this restaurant is an expression of Febbrile’s deep interest in food, art, fashion and culture while also challenging the traditions of fine dining. Discover where this culinary star eats when he’s off duty.

Interior design of Somma restaurant in Singapore
Chef Mirko Febbrile’s newest dining establishment is Somma, located in New Bahru, a lifestyle enclave off River Valley Road in Singapore

What is your favourite local dish in Singapore?
Definitely – and absolutely – laksa. When I first arrived in Singapore, I wasn’t that great with spicy food. Even barbecue-flavoured potato chips were too spicy for me! While my spice tolerance still needs a lot of work, I’ve since learned how to eat dishes like lontong (rice cake), fish curry and a mildly spicy tom yum. And no matter what, I’d still gladly brave the spice when it comes to a bowl of laksa.

I’ve tried many versions, from what they say is the oldest version at Katong Laksa (307 Changi Road), dry ones, to the version I personally find the best and so comforting: Sungei Road Laksa (27 Jalan Berseh #01-100). They cook their gravy on charcoal and use only the most beautiful, sweet, raw blood cockles. Legendary! The queue can get really long, but it’s worth the wait. Trust me – one bowl isn’t enough! I recommend this to everyone I know, and anyone who wants to be my friend has to try this incredible dish.

Can you let us in on a hidden culinary gem in Singapore?
I’ve never seen a bar like Fura in Singapore, which focuses on sustainable dining, using ingredients that have a low carbon footprint and are naturally available in excess. Founded by power couple Christina Rasmussen and Sasha Wijidessa, the pair have done a clever job at weaving unexpected ingredients into their drink and food menu, such as a jellyfish-infused gin and insect protein made from locusts, an invasive species in many countries.

It’s definitely not for the faint of heart, but their strong ethos and bold concept really inspires me to bring something new to the table. We met in Copenhagen when I was working at Noma, and I consider them one of my closest friends and few of the beautiful souls I know.

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