It’s a cold November morning when we land in Fukuoka, with the crisp 12°C weather offering a refreshing break from humid Singapore. Bundled in a light sweater, I join our guide, Haruka Styles, who leads me and another journalist from Malaysia to a car and hands out bottles of water before starting the engine.
Korean hip-hop plays in the background as we enter the Oita Expressway, beginning our three-day exploration of Japan’s countryside. Driving past verdant landscapes, Haruka apologises for the green foliage, noting the absence of autumn colours. She reflects on the country’s hottest summer on record and voices concerns about the shrinking winter – or whether snow will even fall in the next few months.
Situated in Japan’s Kyushu region, Oita Prefecture borders Fukuoka to the northwest and has long been a favourite among South Koreans for its golf courses. Now, it is drawing visitors seeking a slower pace of life in a country often defined by efficiency and speed.
And with Japan welcoming 36.9 million tourists in 2024 – surpassing pre-Covid records, according to the Japan National Tourism Organisation – efforts are being made to redirect tourism to regional areas such as Oita, in order to ease the strain on crowded hubs like Tokyo, Kyoto and Hokkaido.
Stepping back in time
After two hours cruising along Japan’s impeccably smooth roads, we arrive in Bungotakada City’s Showa no Machi, a district steeped in the charm of the Showa era (1926–1989). Revitalised in 2001, the area has preserved its vintage buildings, now home to shops and restaurants adorned with retro memorabilia.
One standout is Otoraya Restaurant, renowned for keeping its prices unchanged for 40 years now – a bowl of kake udon still costs just JPY 200. For lunch, though, we head to Cafe & Bar Boulevard. Opened by Ryo Nozaki in 2002, the café feels like stepping into a classroom, complete with a chalkboard, original school desks and chairs as dining sets, and meals served on aluminium lunch trays. “This is probably what my parents ate in school,” says Haruka, who is still in her 20s, pointing to menu items like agepan (fried bread) and napolitan (Japanese-style ketchup pasta). Even the milk is served in old-fashioned bottles.
To shake off post-lunch drowsiness, we walk a few metres to Showa Romangura, a theme park showcasing artefacts from the era. Highlights include a meticulously preserved 70-year-old Isuzu bus that still operates on Sundays and an extensive collection of toys and dolls, including Astro Boy figurines in various sizes. Continuing through the district, we stop at a 93-year-old electronics shop and Yasuda Sake and Fishing Gear Shop, where the sprightly 80-something owner pours us a shot of her favourite sake before bidding us farewell to our next destination.
In the afternoon, we head to Futagoji Temple a half-hour away, where we are welcomed by a Buddhist monk and finally see some leaves changing colour. Nestled in the Kunisaki Peninsula, the ancient temple was founded 1,300 years ago and is surrounded by lush forests, providing a meditative atmosphere perfect for unwinding. While the temple itself does not organise forest bathing, the monk says it is not unusual for pilgrims to come here and partake in shinrin-yoku, to connect with nature and take a break from their busy lives.
Our day concludes with a taste of Oita’s renowned karaage (fried chicken) and a farm-stay experience at Maruka in Kunisaki City. Here, the evening is marked by a hotpot where we discover one of the prefecture’s famous products: yuzu kosho, or Japanese citrus chilli paste, which can be used on anything edible to elevate its taste, whether it’s soup, fried food or a simple steamed tofu.
Castles, cuisine and onsen wonders
The next morning, we enjoy a simple Japanese breakfast of rice, fried fish and slices of persimmon harvested from Maruka’s farm. It is prepared by the owner, Fusako Kamihira. Having lived in both Europe and the Kanto region of Japan, she experienced a major earthquake during her time in Kanto. During the disaster, the all-electric home she lived in became non-functional, and the roads between her workplace and home collapsed, leaving her unable to reach her child for an extended period. This experience made her deeply realize the importance of self-sufficiency and resilience, ultimately motivating her to move to Kunisaki.
After saying goodbye to Fusako, we start our second day of adventures in Kitsuki Castle Town, a picturesque area where samurai residences and a steep, winding street make for an unforgettable stroll. History seeps from every corner, with Kitsuki Castle offering sweeping views of the surrounding landscape.
Lunch is a hands-on experience at Space Beppu, where we are taught how to make dangojiru (dumpling soup) and yaseuma (sweetened flat noodles). The interactive class brought local culinary traditions to life, fostering a deeper connection to the food. The day’s highlight was a visit to Beppu’s famed hot springs. The Jigoku (“hell”) hot springs – particularly the cobalt-blue Umijigoku and the bubbling Oniishi Bozu Jigoku – were both mesmerising and surreal. A climb to Kifune Castle caps the day, rewarding us with breathtaking views of the town below. We have dinner at Minori, a local establishment celebrating Beppu’s fresh produce, before heading to a hidden music bar called Tannel for a night cap. We call it a night at Hotel Amanek, a modern retreat in the heart of the city and near the train station.
Spiritual and culinary delights
The final day brings a sense of spirituality with a visit to the Usuki Stone Buddhas, ancient carvings that exude serenity and craftsmanship. This is followed by a trip to Yakata Island, home to pristine waters and a scallop farm. Here, visitors can engage directly with the aquaculture process and learn about sustainable seafood farming. Lunch is a delight, featuring hiougigai, large fan-shaped scallops that come in beautifully colored shells. It is freshly caught and steamed by Takeshi Goto inside the Yakatijima Guest House which he rents out to groups. It’s a very unique experience, located on the Saiki island of Yakatijima where only 11 people reside. Takeshi used to live here – and his brother still does – but there are several abandoned houses covered in plants, as the rest of the original settlers have moved out. Later, we head back to the mainland to become a temporary itamae (sushi chef). The hands-on experience is both educational and delicious, ending the trip on a high note.
Three days in Oita showed how this under-the-radar region is a treasure trove of history, gastronomy and natural beauty. From retro townscapes and ancient temples to steaming onsen and farm-to-table dining, the experience captured the essence of Japanese culture in its purest form. Whether for a first-time visitor or a seasoned Japan traveller, Oita should be on your list to explore in 2025.
For more information on Singapore Airlines flights to Fukuoka, visit the official website.
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