Friday 26 April 2024

Fantastic bubbly and where to find them in Singapore

Global demand for Champagne surged post-pandemic, with sales topping a record S$8.78 billion in 2022. And although some of that ardour has cooled since then, this prestige sparkling wine continues to enjoy its moment in Singapore. “Champagne has evolved beyond celebratory toasts and milestones,” comments Machelo Tagala, sommelier at ATLAS bar, which houses one of Asia’s largest collections of gins and Champagnes in Asia. “There’s been an emerging trend of enjoying it casually, independent of a specific occasion.”

Bars and restaurants are also going beyond the marquee houses like Dom Pérignon and Krug and adding a spectrum of smaller, lesser-known producers to their menus. Here are some of the best spots in the city to dive into the world of premium bubbly.

1. Singapore’s first specialist Champagne bar

Where better to begin the journey than Convivial, a wine bar dedicated to all things bubbly? Launched in 2023 by sommelier Yeo Xi Yang, its arched ceilings and minimalist interiors evoke the chalky caves of Champagne. The wine list is deep as it is extensive, ranging from the connoisseur-beloved Salon Cuvée ‘S’ Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut 1990 to the stylistically rare Laherte Frères Les 7 Solera Extra Brut NV.

“We want to represent the Champagne region to the best we can – from the esteemed and revered houses to the farmers who toil the vineyards and make artisanal Champagnes with the little that they have,” says Yeo.

The Champagne is always flowing at Convivial. Photo: Convivial

For those who prefer not to commit to a whole bottle, there’s also an impressive array of nine Champagnes available by the glass, including the Krug Grande Cuvée 171ème.

Convivial’s eclectic culinary menu provides a range of pairing options, from classic charcuterie to the Asian-inspired tako karaage (deep fried octopus). “I like to explore different food pairings with the variety of styles that Champagne has, and lately I have been enjoying zippy and racy Blanc de Blancs with crispy fried frog’s legs,” Yeo shares.

2. A natural wine bar with a Champagne list that centres sustainability

Wine RVLT might not seem like an obvious choice for Champagne, given that they are better known for their organic and biodynamic wines. But as industry peer Davis Tan – Michelin-recommended FOOL’s head sommelier – remarks, “Not only is Wine RVLT a pioneer of organic and biodynamic wines in Singapore and the industry’s watering hole, they also have an impressive Champagne list.”

A whole wall, in fact. Naturally, the selection reflects the bar’s ethos of sustainability, featuring Champagne by Elise Dechannes and biodynamic producer Francis Boulard. “Champagne made with biodynamic and organic grapes will soon be normalised,” predicts co-founder Ian Lim. “Being ecological is a social responsibility and not a trend.”

Co-founders Alvin Gho and Ian Lim against their wine wall. Photo: Wine RVLT

“Champagne made with biodynamic and organic grapes will soon be normalised. Being ecological is a social responsibility and not a trend”

While the Champagne region is obviously best known for its sparkling wine, don’t be surprised if you’re invited to try Lelarge-Pugeot’s Coteaux Champenois, a little-known still wine that’s been capturing the attention of sommeliers in recent years. It’s all a sign of the trend that co-founder Alvin Gho believes to be “the shift from sparkling to still wines”.

“Due to global warming, and the fact that Côte de Bar is the southernmost region of Champagne – compounding factors that create a more ideal environment for grape ripening which impacts the quality of wines – Coteaux Champenois is looking really good these days,” says Gho.

3. An exclusive wine bar with sparkling wines from exciting regions

Park90 at Conrad Singapore Orchard is a sophisticated wine bar with a membership programme which offers enthusiasts exclusive access to rare and limited release wines. Needless to say, its wine list is spectacular, with a well-curated by-the-glass menu and a comprehensive collection of Champagne. Sitting snug alongside familiar players like Charles Heidsieck, are under-the-radar producers like Francis Boulard and Champagne Marguet that are ripe for discovery.

Park90 is not to be missed for the serious oenophile. Photo: Conrad Singapore Orchard

The elegant lounge is also an ideal place for trying notable sparkling wines from other regions. Group wine director Mason Ng says, “Hokkaido is the next up-and-coming region. I’ve paid several visits to its vineyards, and I see a great potential there as it shares many similarities to the Champagne region. Producers like Yamazaki Winery and Niseko Winery are particularly good and quite different in style.”

“Hokkaido is the next up-and-coming region. It shares many similarities to the Champagne region”

On where he likes to go for Champagne, Ng says, “Restaurant Matera’s bar is pouring a range of Champagnes at S$100 a bottle and serves bar snacks, casual bistro food and fine dining fare at a fraction of what you’d normally pay elsewhere. S$18 for a cacio e pepe or S$48 for an abalone donabe (Japanese-style claypot rice) for two!”

4. A retro funk bar by an acclaimed chef

Established by two-Michelin-starred Cloudstreet’s Rishi Naleendra, FOOL is a distinctive bar on buzzy Boon Tat Street that’s made a name for its playful, unconventional approach to wine. The relaxed, ’70s retro-tinged space, paired with a playlist of funk, disco and jazz, sets the mood for an evening of vino complemented with eclectic plates by chef Naleendra.

Boon Tat Street is lined with trendy dining spots like FOOL. Photo: FOOL

Navigating a menu of more than 300 wines might seem intimidating, but the personable head sommelier Davis Tan is always on hand to recommend a bubbly. He notes a rise in interest towards exploring wine producers with sustainable, transparent farming practices. “One interesting bottle is N.V. Laculle Frères Val Moignot Bertil Andersson ‘Extra Brut’, a 100% Pinot Blanc Champagne by a sustainable producer from Côte des Bar,” he says. “A deviation from the three main Champagne grapes (Chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier), this is a composition you rarely see. It’s a softer and more delicate style of Champagne and pairs well with our crumbed Japanese saba with yuzukosho tartar sauce.”

A few of the sparkling options available by the glass. Photo: FOOL

Besides FOOL, Tan recommends “Nicolas Le Restaurant, a small French bistro that has one of the most comprehensive French cellars in town, enough to make any wine professional geek out.” He adds. “Recently, I had a 2009 Francis Boulard & Fille Les Rachais Rosé ‘Extra Brut’ which was exceptional. It is a Saignée-style Champagne rosé where the skins were allowed to macerate in the juice for some time before being pressed, creating an intensely fruit-driven yet savoury wine. Superbly complex and vinous with a touch of oxidation, it’s one of the best champagne rosés I’ve tasted in a while.”

5. Champagne treasures in this classic cocktail and gin joint

The world might know ATLAS for its cocktails and its formidable gin library, but did you know that it also boasts an equally impressive Champagne collection? Look to the base of its iconic Gin Tower to find a dedicated room that houses its Champagne. One of its most famous bottles is the Champagne once served on the ill-fated Titanic: the Heidsieck & Co Monopole “Goût Américain” that was salvaged from the bottom of the ocean, priced at a cool S$190,700.

Drink in the grandeur of ATLAS’ Art Deco-inspired interior along with your bubbly. Photo: ATLAS

Good thing there’s plenty of quality bubbly within reach, such as grower Champagne Godmé Père et Fils. “In my view, all grower-producers deserve more recognition and attention from consumers,” declares sommelier Machelo Tagala. “These artisans not only craft Champagne but also cultivate the grapes used in its production. In contrast to larger Champagne houses that source grapes from diverse sources, a grower-producer, exemplified by Godmé Père et Fils, owns and tends to their own vineyards, ensuring control over the entire winemaking process. This dedication results in unique expressions, with a focus on terroir and individual vineyard characteristics.”

For our full list of things to try and places to see in Singapore, check out our Singapore City Guide.
For more information on Singapore Airlines flights to Singapore, visit the official website

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