Friday, 14 June 2024

10 reasons to make Sonoma County your next wine country getaway

Part of California’s Wine Country region, Sonoma County is almost twice as big as its rival Napa County and is a two-hour drive from San Francisco International Airport.

Running parallel on the west side of Napa and stretching all the way to the Pacific Ocean, Sonoma’s cool ocean breeze creates a large diurnal shift that sets the right condition for a long and slow ripening of grape vines, which in turn produces lively pinot noir, chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon – the grape varietals that Sonoma is best known for.

Beyond the unique terroir for incredible wine, Sonoma County’s gorgeous natural landscape is home to a culinary scene that punches above its weight and offers plenty of opportunities for family-friendly outdoor adventures.

Although Napa Valley may be better known internationally for its wines, Sonoma is more approachable and welcoming, with far more to offer beyond alcoholic beverage. Here are 10 reasons to choose Sonoma County, when you’re seeking a well-rounded escape to Wine Country.

1. World-class wineries offering unique food pairings and spectacular views

While most will stop at larger wineries like Rodney Strong and Sonoma-Cutrer, venture off the beaten path for exquisite bites where the local produce truly shines. MacRostie Estate House is just a 10-minutes drive from downtown Healdsburg and you can enjoy a curated flight of five Chardonnays and pinot noirs, accompanied by small seasonal bites like umeboshi pickled turnips and truffle popcorn.

Close by, Aperture Cellars offers elegant tastings of small batch bottles by winemaker Jesse Katz in an art gallery overlooking estate vineyards. And at family-owned Dry Creek Vineyard, surrounded by blooming gardens, your wine will pair impeccably well with locally made Journeyman Meat salumi and a selection of delicate cheeses from Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese. The winery’s historic chateau is inspired by the Loire Valley, the picturesque region where many French wines originated. Guests are welcome to bring their own picnics to enjoy on the grounds with bottles of their choosing.

2. Unforgettable tasting menus at underrated culinary gems

The three Michelin-starred SingleThread may be the magnet for jetsetting international gourmands, but just 15 minutes away in Geyserville, Cyrus is a new fine dining favourite. Chef-owner Douglas Keane creates a convivial, casual ambiance for fine dining, moving guests from canapés paired with Champagne in the Bubbles Lounge to a parade of appetisers in the impressive kitchen before settling in the dining room for main courses and dessert.

The 20-course extravaganza is full of surprises and delights, and the creativity and precision of Keane’s cooking is remarkable, melding Japanese techniques and flavours with the best of California ingredients. “We take our food seriously, but we don’t take ourselves too seriously,” he says. Memorable bites from a recent menu include a black garlic “Oreo” filled with foie gras, the most delicate fava bean chawanmushi and soba noodle-wrapped local black cod. The vegetarian menu is imaginative enough to make meat eaters jealous and the complex non-alcoholic beverage pairings are as enjoyable as any alcohol.

For an additional option, check out Farmhouse Inn in Forestville, where new chef Craig Wilmer is putting this idyllic spot back on the map with artfully plated dishes and intricate flavours.

3. Homey, mind-blowing comfort food in a culinary haven

Healdsburg, the heart of Sonoma County, is also its culinary capital, and that extends to casual dining that will blow you away too. Begin with happy hour bites and drinks at The Matheson rooftop lounge overlooking Healdsburg Plaza, then stroll over to Molti Amici for wood-fired pizzas and freshly made pasta paired with excellent cocktails and an impressive global wine list. The laidback, modern Italian restaurant is helmed by a trio of SingleThread alumni and the lively back patio even has a bocce ball court. The same talented husband-and-wife chef team behind Molti Amici also own Quail & Condor, with the best bread and breakfast pastries in town. Lines can get long here, especially on weekends, so plan to arrive early for the best selection.

Try the housemade pasta at Molti Amici, such as the coronetto with fava bean mascarpone filling and gnochetti topped with thick slices of pork belly. Photo: Molti Amici

4. A lavish food and wine festival that’s one of America’s best

Healdsburg Wine & Food Experience may be a newcomer on the food festival circuit, but this annual May event stands out for the combination of intimate wine seminars, winery lunches and celebrity chef cooking demonstrations juxtaposed with a raucous walkaround grand tasting featuring Sonoma’s best local food and drink with nearly 200 wineries and restaurants represented. This past year’s magnum finale at The Matheson was a highlight, with winemakers and sommeliers showcasing rare bottles from their cellars, along with a pool party at Francis Ford Coppola’s winery and a colourful Bollywood dance party at La Crema Winery. Next year’s event will run from 15–18 May 2025 – mark your calendars!

5. Fantastic seasonal produce just as divine as wine

Beyond the wine, there’s also plenty of delicious seasonal goods to be explored in agrarian Sonoma County. Gold Ridge Organic Farms in the rolling hills of Sebastopol offers heirloom apple tastings from mid-August to late October (try the ice cream sundae with Honeycrisp and Fuji apple cider syrup) and freshly milled olio nuovo (first harvest) tastings during the olive harvest in November and December.

Guests can pick their own heirloom apples at Gold Ridge Organic Farms. Photo: Gold Ridge Organic Farms

A 25-minute drive away, McEvoy Ranch in Petaluma is another great spot to taste a wide array of olive oils, including agrumato olive oil infused with rosemary, basil, lemon and blood orange. Petaluma is also home to excellent farmstead dairy products and you can sample cheese and ice cream at Petaluma Creamery.

6. Bountiful family-friendly adventures for the kids in tow

Walk off all that fine food and drink while taking in the abundance of Sonoma County’s natural beauty. You’ll be spoilt for choice with the county’s 11 state parks with rivers, coastal cliffs, redwood trees and mountains galore.

Kayaking along the coast of Sonoma County reveals gems such as Bodega Bay beach. Photo: Shutterstock

From ziplining through the coastal redwood forest with Sonoma Canopy Tours to kayaking with Suki Waters, a local Native American guide and kayak instructor at Watertreks in Jenner, there are adventures ideal for the whole family. Animal lovers can even visit Safari West, a private wildlife reserve nicknamed the “Sonoma Serengeti”, located in the Mayacamas mountain range between Santa Rosa and Calistoga.

7. Heavenly spa treatments that will leave you radiant and relaxed

The Wellness Barn at Farmhouse Inn is a cosy sanctuary, where massages with local botanical products and powerhouse anti-aging facials all conclude with a cup of herbal tea harvested from the adjacent garden. Sound bath meditation and forest bathing with a certified nature therapy guide are available as well.

The Wellness Barn at Farmhouse Inn is a prime example of rustic, laid-back luxury that Sonoma is known for. Photo: Farmhouse Inn

The more secluded Osmosis Day Spa Sanctuary located among Kyoto-style Japanese gardens in Freestone is worth seeking out for their famous cedar enzyme baths. The warm, fragrant bath of rice bran and soft ground cedar is meant to stimulate your metabolism and improve circulation.

8. A Michelin bib gourmand brunch that will cure any hangover

After a day of wine tasting, brunch at Folktable is just what you need to refuel. It’s also conveniently located right on the drive back to San Francisco. The farm-to-table restaurant is only open until 4pm each day (closed Mondays and Tuesdays) with a grab-and-go window for coffee, tea and pastries if you’re in a hurry.

Executive chef Casey Thompson serves seared halloumi cheese avocado toast, honey fried chicken sandwiches, hearty salads and her famous tiny tuna tostadas, incorporating a kaleidoscope of seasonal ingredients from the restaurant’s own farm.

9. Adorable boutique hotels in Sonoma’s historic city centre

Planning to stay for longer than a day trip? If you’re driving from San Francisco, the city of Sonoma – the southern gateway to Sonoma County – is a small town of 11,000 people that is centred around a colonial-era plaza with 19th century adobe buildings.

Inn at Sonoma offers a complimentary breakfast each morning for guests in their light-filled lobby living room. Photo: Inn at Sonoma

You’ll find plenty of homely boutique hotels just a few blocks from the plaza, including family-friendly Inn At Sonoma, where daily hot buffet breakfast is included for all guests, Cottage Inn & Spa which offers great massages and El Dorado Hotel which has just wrapped up a major guest room renovation. Adults and kids alike will enjoy dessert at Sweet Scoops Homemade Ice Cream on the historic square.

10. Stay at a winery overlooking vineyards

Alternatively, wake up to vineyard views and fresh hen eggs from estate chickens when you stay overnight at Bricoleur Vineyards, along with breakfast pastries and a complimentary six-course wine and food pairing for the group. There are board games like Jenga and lawn games like corn hole, and children are welcome here too. Bliss House at Lynmar Estate is a three-bedroom escape with a smartly appointed kitchen and views overlooking Quail Hill Vineyard. Once the gates close and the last visitors leave, you have the entire grounds to yourself.

For our full list of things to try and places to see in San Francisco, check out our San Francisco City Guide.

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Wednesday, 12 June 2024

Momentus Hotel Alexandra

Located along Alexandra Road, in a vibrant heartland district, staying at this 442-key hotel puts you within short reach of authentic local hawker food at the ABC Brickworks Market & Food Centre, green spaces such as the Southern Ridges and HortPark as well as contemporary art enclave Gillman Barracks. Yet it remains conveniently connected to the city centre and Sentosa, the Lion City’s island resort. Come home to elegantly designed modern rooms and three swimming pools, plus a swim-up bar and an outdoor jacuzzi.

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Thursday, 6 June 2024

Singapore’s cocktail bar scene is shifting gears

With one swift motion, Sago House co-founder Desiree Jane Silva chalks a guest’s name on a table, mirroring the colourful scrawls that spell out the drinks menu on a repurposed windowpane behind the bar counter. It is a personal touch that makes even first-timers to this drinking spot in Duxton Hill, a few steps away from the newly opened Mondrian Singapore Duxton hotel, feel like cherished regulars. And it is gestures like this that has earned it the Michter’s Art of Hospitality Award last year and a consistent spot in the Asia’s 50 Best Bars list since 2021 (it is currently in 10th place). 

Founded in 2020 during Covid-19, Sago House was first opened by Silva (formerly of 28 Hong Kong Street and premium craft spirits distributor EC Proof) and her co-founders Jay Gray (previously of Sydney’s Hinky Dinks and currently at Idle Hands) and Abhishek Cherian George (The Spiffy Dapper) in a gritty shophouse along Sago Lane in the Chinatown area. Guests would book a coveted spot in the 35-seater bar and climb up to the third floor of the residential building, often wondering if they were in the right place as they navigated the dim stairwell. 

Inside, the owners had built the place almost entirely by hand, salvaging a major stage set into raised flooring and seating; even wiring and tiling the place themselves. In a city where a luxurious ambience has become the norm for cocktail bars and fine dining restaurants, Sago House’s dive bar concept, albeit with an impressively sophisticated drinks list, was an instant, refreshing hit. 

Chalked-on scrawls on bar counters and window panes are part of Sago House’s laidback aesthetic. Photo: Sago House

At its new location since November last year, Sago House still retains the charm of its original spot but can now entertain a fuller house, thanks to the more generous standing room and outdoor seating. Guests are still greeted with the same warm chorus of “Hello!” when they enter, and it still looks cosy inside. 

Drinks on the menu board change weekly based on what’s available at the local market, with six classic-style drinks always on rotation. Among its popular drinks is the Bakwa Negroni, a localised rendition of the Florentian classic. Fat-washed with bakwa, a caramelised pork jerky popular during the Lunar New Year season, the drink is full-bodied and buttery smooth, with a gentle smokiness coming through from the Montelobos mezcal. The garnish: a slice of actual bakwa, which lends a sweet-savoury note as you sip.

A five-minute walk from Sago House is the 40-seater speakeasy-style Cat Bite Club, discreetly tucked behind a café on the ground floor of a three-storey conserved shophouse, with only soundproof curtains separating the two.

“This is the kind of bar that guests will come back to over and over, and not just for special occasions”

Like Sago House, Cat Bite Club is founded by bartenders who relish the independence that running their own cocktail bar affords. “Here, we have complete creative control, from lighting to music, uniforms to operating hours,” says Jesse Vida, former head bartender at ATLAS, who opened Cat Bite Club in June with fellow mixologist Gabriel Lowe (previously of Bangkok’s Paradise Lost and San Francisco’s Black Cat). “Ultimately, it just feels good to be able to apply your experience completely, and not have to compromise because someone above you has other preferences,” Vida adds.

Cat Bite Club serves up tequila- and mezcal-inflected renditions of classic cocktails, alongside more than 100 bottles of agave spirits. Their signature Cat Bite Club Margarita, a refreshing blend of tequila, mezcal and agave nectar, remains one of their bestsellers. The bar also shines a spotlight on the underexplored rice spirit category by using, for instance, aged soju in place of cognac in I Love Gold, their own twist on the classic Vieux Carré.

Complementing the bar’s relaxed vibe are cheeky touches – such as a bathroom plastered with on-point cat memes – that add to its convivial atmosphere and differentiate it from the formality of bigger establishments. “There is a comfort in drinking at places like ours. This is the kind of bar that guests will come back to over and over, and not just for special occasions,” Vida says.

Side Door’s Bannie Kang and Tryson Quek. Photo: Side Door

Husband and wife Bannie Kang and Tryson Quek would know. Formerly the head bartender and chef de cuisine at Fairmont Singapore hotel’s Anti:dote bar respectively, the two decided to forge their own path after Kang was named world’s best bartender at the 2019 Diageo World Class Bartender of the Year cocktail competition. They initially set up a modest four-person private diner, and in January, expanded their operations and opened Side Door, a 40-seater restaurant-bar on Neil Road, on the periphery of Duxton Hill.

The couple’s come-as-you-are policy translates into a bar with a stripped back, unpretentious aesthetic. The interior of bare concrete and natural wood is filled with personal artefacts like Quek’s collectible figurines and Kang’s lovingly cultivated plants. The minimalist ethos extends even to the drinks. Kang’s cocktails, usually presented with little adornment, are beautifully balanced. The deceptively simple Easy Peasy adds mountain peppers from Taiwan to the gin-based cocktail for an intriguing layer of complexity.

Enter through the, well, Side Door. Photo: Side Door

To Kang and Quek, Side Door is where they can implement their unique brand of hospitality without having to seek clearance from higher-ups. “Big hotel bars are more likely to chase accolades, whereas smaller bars can prioritise the consumer experience rather than awards. We prefer a more intimate space, where customers can come as they are – there’s no dress code,” Quek says.

That’s not to say that all cocktail bars in hotels are not fun. At voco Orchard Singapore hotel, Italian impresario Dario Knox exudes a similar sense of independence at The Backdrop, which opened in October last year. The entrance is hidden behind an unmarked wall on the hotel’s ground floor, and guests need a password to get in. Inside, the 37-seater is a sight to behold. Decked with deep red velvet curtains, a crystal chandelier and feather centrepieces, the ambiance may be more luxurious compared to other bartender-run establishments, but the atmosphere is just as fun and experimental. 

Behind the bar, Knox eschews traditional bar tools and liquors in his cocktail game. Instead, his “percolated cocktail” creations utilise meticulously extracted botanics, which he fuses with flavourless distilled alcohol. Made with this technique, the Percolated Espresso Martini is a crystal clear cocktail that’s at once familiar yet disarmingly new. Elsewhere on his menu, you’ll find other sly twists on classics; for instance, his Queen Mary is a Bloody Mary made without a drop of tomato juice. Instead, he incorporates kimchi and beans to create the drink’s sensational umami. 

The entire experience, from drinks to décor, is in a class of its own. 

The expert distiller has 18 years of mixology experience, including setting up Marriott Tang Plaza Hotel’s The Other Room, a secret bar known for its cask-finished spirits. 

“It’s my life project, my tribute to Italian artisanship,” he says of this latest venture. “It’s born from a personal need to express something that I have always wanted, that encapsulates quality, fun, attention to detail and tradition and that finally focuses on customers rather than creating another hipster spot that followed a trend,” he says.

The lush theatrical backdrop to Dario’s masterful mixology. Photo: The Backdrop

Whether low-key and intimate or extravagant and novel, it’s clear that the new batch of cocktail bars that have opened in Singapore are delivering solid concepts, great drinks and warm hospitality. And the people behind them believe that this momentum will keep on as the bar scene continues to mature. 

Sam Ng, who co-founded pizza-and-cocktails joint Puffy Bois in Kampong Glam with Zul Zaba, predicts that the shift towards unique, friendly and service-focused venues will continue as more mixologists who have worked overseas strike out on their own locally. “These experts tend to bring with them bar experiences that they themselves love, which in turn creates a sense of familiarity, home and belonging for their international clientele,” Ng says.

“As a small, independent business, we are both managers and toilet cleaners, chefs and trash collectors. You have got to do it all”

Hanging out at Puffy Bois, an easy-going, no-frills spot on the second floor of a shophouse along Bali Lane, feels like having drinks at a friend’s home – who just happens to be an award-winning bartender. “We want to create a place which we ourselves want to walk into, embodying the ethos of all the things we love in venues abroad,” explains Ng, a former Monkey Shoulder ambassador who has had stints at New York’s Employees Only and Melbourne’s Black Pearl.  

Ng and Zul run a tight ship, handling all parts of the 24-seater operation themselves. Ng serves up a concise menu of smooth, well-balanced classics like the martini, Manhattan and old-fashioned, while Zul makes pizzas from scratch. “As a small, independent business, we are both managers and toilet cleaners, chefs and trash collectors. You have got to do it all,” Ng says.

Over at sustainability-minded gastrobar Fura, co-owner Sasha Wijidessa (formerly of now-shuttered Operation Dagger and Danish distillery Empirical) likewise notes a growing shift from big and splashy destination experiences to more relaxed social settings. “I think it’s more apparent with the local dining scene, but that move is also felt within bar spaces,” Wijidessa says. “These days, you see more consumers prioritising a setting where they can be comfortable, relax and enjoy their company rather than be entertained by the venue or experience itself.” 

Brightly lit, narrow and minimalist, the 70-seater gastrobar opened on the second floor of a colonial-style shophouse on Amoy Street in September 2023. Here, Wijidessa’s partner, Christina Rasmussen, leans on her experience as the former head forager at Noma, the legendary Copenhagen dining spot that was repeatedly included in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list (it was number one in 2021). 

The jellyfish cocktail is one of Fura's mainstays. Photo: Fura
The Jellyfish Martini is one of Fura’s mainstays. Photo: Fura

Guests will find a menu peppered with unconventional ingredients like mealworm, corn husk and vegan custard. It’s all part of Wijidessa and Rasmussen’s crusade to introduce their customers to a more climate-sensitive way of dining. To the couple, this means prioritising the use of ingredients that are over-abundant or which generate a lower carbon footprint. 

Wijidessa’s forward-thinking cocktails include Caviar Papi, a vodka martini-style drink that utilises pearls made from black garlic for a gently pungent umami; and the Jellyfish Martini, which incorporates the invertebrate as well as fish leaf into a clear gin-based tipple. Come with an adventurous palate and – as with its fellow newly opened indie bars – be ready to be delighted. 

For more on where to drink in Singapore, check out our Singapore City Guide. 

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Wednesday, 5 June 2024

The Backdrop

Cleverly concealed amid luxury fashion boutiques, this secretive cocktail joint housed within voco Orchard Singapore hotel is not your everyday speakeasy. Lavishly decorated in sensuous reds, Italian marble and dark wood, the cabaret-style bar is founder Dario Knox’s ode to Italian artisanship. Here, you’ll try drinks that feel almost like a magic trick, such as an espresso martini that’s crystal clear, or a Bloody Mary made without a single drop of tomato juice. They’re the culmination of Knox’s obsession with botanical extraction techniques, which allow him to recreate signature flavours by deftly combining unexpected ingredients. The kitchen obligingly opens past midnight everyday, offering late-night imbibers an array of tapas to nibble on. The iberico, mozzarella and truffle bikini is an enduring favourite, while the tuna belly tartare is a lighter choice. Drop by on the bar’s Sparkly Thursdays, where every glass of champagne is complemented with a spoon of caviar.

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Side Door

With a concrete and wood interior that pulls together the most stylish elements of a local public housing void deck, Side Door pays homage to its creators’ original four-seater private dining concept, which they used to run out of their own apartment. Award-winning mixologist Bannie Kang and her husband Tryson Quek continue to create laidback, intimate dining experiences in this charmingly informal bar and restaurant. Drinks at Kang’s hand are dangerously smooth; the Non-Fruit Beer, her personal favourite, is a too-easy blend of whisky, fernet and Korean Barley. Make sure to pair this with Quek’s excellent fried chicken wings with chilli and cumin. The food menu is populated by hearty, bar-friendly bites like this. Highlights include the blue lipped mussels served with grilled sourdough and the Angus beef tartare with yuzu sorbet.

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