Tuesday 25 June 2024

Meet the neighbours: Chinatown, Singapore

One of Singapore’s most multifaceted districts, Chinatown originally began as a humble settlement for Hokkien, Cantonese and Teochew immigrants in the early 19th century. Back then, the sprawling neighbourhood was organised by dialect groups and trades; today, a charming hodge-podge of murals, teahouses and temples makes it a must-visit stop on your itinerary.

Located just west of the city-state’s Central Business District and south of its lively Clarke Quay nightlife district, Chinatown comprises four sub-districts that are bounded by Cross Street and Keong Saik Road in the north and south, and Robinson Road and New Bridge Road in the east and west. Among them are Bukit Pasoh and Telok Ayer, where trendy bars and restaurants proliferate along streets of low-rise shophouses. Its key landmarks include the Buddha Tooth Relic TempleSri Mariamman Temple and the touristy Chinatown Street Market. That said, the historic district is best enjoyed by venturing off the beaten path.

Climb a few flights of stairs of a heritage shophouse along Sago Street or Pagoda Street, and you’ll find a soothing modern tearoom like SILK Tea Bar or a vintage thrift store like NearesTTen. Seek delicious local eats in hawker centres such as Maxwell Food Centre and Amoy Street Food Centre, though there’s also remarkable fine dining to be had at nearby Born and Restaurant Fiz.

And if you’re around during festivals such as Lunar New Year and Mid-autumn Festival, don’t miss the eye-catching light sculptures that line the main artery of New Bridge Road.

Not sure where else to begin your exploration? Hear from four people intimately familiar with this lively district – jeweller Carrie Kan of Carrie K atelier; restaurateur Travis Masiero of Blue Label Pizza & Wine; entrepreneur Cheryl Ou of The Social Space; and owner Cliff Chua of Café Monochrome.

Carolyn Kan

Founder and designer, Carrie K.

A former advertising powerhouse, jewellery designer Carrie Kan’s love for storytelling never left her. With Carrie K, the eponymous jewellery brand that she founded in 2009, she uses her skills to immortalise conversations with friends and clients into meaningful, elegant pieces.

Carolyn Kan’s love for storytelling now manifests as unique jewellery pieces. Photo: Carrie K

“I love talking to people to uncover their stories and solve their problems,” she shares. “For example, when clients had jewellery they were gifted but never wore because it was not their style, we created our Heirloom Revival service where we repurposed the precious metals and gemstones to create new modern meaningful jewellery for our clients.”

After almost 15 years in the business, Kan finally achieved her dream of establishing Carrie K Atelier, her own beautifully decked out shophouse space along Neil Road. This studio not only provides personalised jewellery services and workshops, but also serves as a physical embodiment of Kan’s vision for her brand – one that is elegant, timeless and warm.

Kan appreciates the eclectic mix of old and new influences in this part of town, and some of her favourite dining spots include Tong Heng Bakery for what she calls “the island’s best egg tarts” and NOA Lounge for Mediterranean cuisine. “For something local, Tong Ah Eating House’s Moonlight Hor Fun (stir-fried wide rice noodles served with a runny yolk) is unbeatable,” Kan says.

Other places she frequents include Binary Style on Keong Saik Road for Singapore-inspired scarves, Living DNA for beautiful rugs and Hook on Books for Chinese children’s books.

Travis Masiero

Founder, Blue Label Pizza & Wine 

“Great pizza should have an identity that comes from the maker behind it,” says Travis Masiero, the founder of Blue Label Pizza & Wine. “Mine, for example is a combination of my favourite pizza styles – New Haven and New York – with a dash of creativity given to our toppings.”

That dash of creativity emerges from the restaurant’s bespoke stone ovens as an explosion of flavours. The J-Dog is an umami delight stacked with pork sausage, bacon, pepperoni and jalapeño; while The Travis Supreme reimagines a burger as a pizza with ground chuck, cheddar-bacon melt and a secret sauce piled atop a sesame crust. For the more adventurous palate, try The Wu-Tang Clam – it tastes like the inspired offspring of garlic bread and pasta alle vongole.

Masiero opened the first outlet of Blue Label Pizza on Ann Siang Road following the success of Luke’s Oyster Bar & Chop House, a beloved establishment serving up fresh seafood from New England that’s located just down the road. Since then, he also founded Nixta, a Mexican grill and bar nearby. Needless to say, he’s intimately acquainted with the area.

Blue Label is best known for serving up pizzas with a twist. Photo: Blue Label Pizza

When he’s not busy managing his restaurants, you’ll find him at Club Street enjoying a glass of wine and globe artichoke with aioli at Le Bon Funk, a roast chicken at 87 Club Street or a classic cocktail at Employees Only on Amoy Street. For a bit of fresh air, he says, “the park connector behind Gemmill Lane connecting to Ann Siang Hill is a wonderful little walk, and a nice place to take a break.”

Cheryl Ou

Co-founder, The Social Space

“In 2016, my husband Daniel [Yeow]’s job moved us to Bali, Indonesia, for two years. There, we saw first-hand how socially conscious businesses across various industries could be mainstream and make a real impact on the community,” says Cheryl Ou. Upon their return to Singapore in 2018, they envisioned building a multi-concept space encompassing a café, shop, event space and nail salon. Soon, The Social Space was born.

Balancing purpose with profit is at the core of Ou’s philosophy. “Both Daniel and I truly believe that it is possible to build a business that is profitable, scalable and makes a difference to people and the planet,” she shares. “And as employers, we also have the chance to provide training and employment to those who need it the most.”

One of the reasons the duo chose to open The Social Space in Chinatown is because of the area’s diverse community. “What truly makes it special is the wonderful blend of people – young and old, locals and expats, as well as travellers from around the globe,” she enthuses.

The Social Space is a one-stop-shop for homeware, light bites, and events – it even houses a nail salon. Photo: Gwen Pew

Some of Ou’s favourite neighbours on Kreta Ayer Road include Vagabond Ink for tattoos and CHOO-P Leathercraft for beautiful products and workshops. For hearty local fare, she likes to indulge in chicken rice, claypot rice and xiao long bao (steamed pork dumplings) at the bustling Chinatown Complex Market & Food Centre. To treat yourself, she recommends Don Dae Bak for Korean barbeque and Steamov for conveyor belt steamboat.

Cliff Chua

Partner, Café Monochrome

In 2020, Cliff Chua stepped into the working world as a fresh graduate in the midst of a global pandemic, armed with a degree in material sciences and a passion for cooking and art. While it’s a daunting prospect for some, Chua took a leap of faith and started his own business. The result is Café Monochrome, a concept that invites customers into a quirky, black and white 2D world. From the floorboards to tables and lampshades, everything here is designed to make you feel as though you’ve stepped into a comic book.

The first outlet of Café Monochrome, which features art created by Chua with the help of his family and friends, opened in Jalan Besar. Following its success, Chua opened another outlet on Trengganu Street in 2023. “We figured that Chinatown would be the perfect location for our second outlet for both locals and tourists,” he says.

Enter a 2D world at Café Monochrome. Photo: Café Monochrome

“We get guests from all over the world, from Germany to Taiwan, and it’s interesting to chat with them and learn about their cultures while we share more about Singapore,” says Chua. “One time, I met a tourist who happened to run a 2D café in Nepal, except his concept is centred on anime and Marvel characters. During our conversation, we shared our insights on maintaining a café with each other, and he even ended up giving me recommendations on where to get dal bhat (lentil curry) if I ever visit Nepal.”

Some of the most popular dishes at Café Monochrome include the ragu pasta and all-day breakfast, which comes with a salted egg yolk croissant. But apart from the dishes at his own café, Chua loves going for local delicacies in the neighbourhood. He recommends the pig trotter rice from Shi Nian Pig Leg Rice and mutton soup from Ming Shan at Chinatown Complex, and omelette rice from Danlao at Maxwell Food Centre. He also enjoys the occasional indulgence in Korean barbecue at either Charim or Supulae along Tanjong Pagar Road, a little further afield.

For our full list of things to try and places to see in Singapore, check out our Singapore City Guide.
For more information on Singapore Airlines flights to Singapore, visit the official website

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