Tuesday, 19 March 2024

The thrill of the bite

At 2am, the streets in wintery Shimonoseki are mostly deserted. However, for the staff and buyers at Haedomari Market, on the western reaches of the city, the day has just begun. This is Japan’s only fish market dedicated to fugu, the highly prized – and highly poisonous – pufferfish. From here, this legendary Japanese delicacy travels to restaurants and markets across the country.

Lying 90 km northeast of Fukuoka, Shimonoseki has always been an important crossroads for people, goods and culture. Being Honshu Island’s most westerly point, Shimonoseki has been the closest port of call for Korean people and culture for centuries and today boasts a large Korean diaspora. The city is the gateway to the Seto Inland Sea, making it critical to both international and domestic shipping. Its coastal geography also makes it a thriving fishing port.

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