Meet the Neighbours: Duxton, Singapore

Nestled between Singapore’s Central Business District and Chinatown, the eclectic Duxton neighbourhood is packed with some of the city’s most charming establishments. Along the foothills of the better-known and buzzing Duxton Hill lifestyle enclave, indie bookstores are sandwiched between low-rise heritage shophouses, while an antique furniture shop rubs shoulders with a beloved gelato store on Craig Road. Foodies are spoilt for choice with options such as African restaurant Kafe Utu, Latin-Indian izakaya Barood, British pub Lad & Dad and award-winning bar No Sleep Club. 

Take in some of the best views in town from the rooftop gardens of luxe public housing project Pinnacle@Duxton (accessible to the public for a small fee of $6), or simply chill out in Duxton Plain Park for a green respite. And now that luxury boutique hotel Mondrian Singapore Duxton has opened, this district just became even cooler. Hear from four experts who live and work in the area about some of their favourite haunts.

Duxton Hill shophouses. Photo: Shutterstock

Jacqui Chan

Restaurant Manager, Christina’s

Jacqui Chan.

With its quirky floral bar stools and big windows, Christina’s is as welcoming by day as it is elegant by night. This all-day dining spot recently opened as part of luxury hotel Mondrian Singapore, and its drinks menu features an eclectic curation of local brands – such as Tiong Hoe Speciality Coffee and Antidote Juice – and natural wines.

The place is headed up by restaurant manager Jacqui Chan, whose varied career includes winning a SEA Games gold medal for synchronised swimming, flying as cabin crew for Singapore Airlines and co-founding a hostel chain.

“I enjoy new challenges, but my true calling is to provide excellent service,” she shares. “I love that Christina’s feels more like a casual neighbourhood bar, and that the DNA of my team is so playful. It’s just a great, unpretentious place for people to catch up.”

Outside of office hours, she can be found wolfing down handrolls at RAPPU, or sipping cocktails with friends at Japanese-inspired cocktail bar Live Twice. “I like citrusy drinks, so I usually get the Bee’s Knees or Southside Fizz,” says Chan. And, being the athlete that she is, she also attends cycling and boxing classes at the nearby CRU studio at least three times a week. 

Isabella Teng

Artist

Isabella Teng. Photo: Lena Lofling

There are already plenty of reasons to explore Duxton Hill, but the Singapore Art Museum (SAM) just gave us another with its public art trail titled “Port/traits of Tanjong Pagar”. One of the featured works is Little Islands, a series of murals at Tanjong Pagar Plaza by Isabella Teng that offers different interpretations of island life in Singapore.

“I was very intrigued by Tanjong Pagar Plaza’s unique position as a 1970s-80s public housing project surrounded by more modern developments,” says Teng. “I was also inspired by the fact that the beach used to be much closer to Tanjong Pagar, before the land reclamation projects of the past century. For Little Islands, I wanted to bring the beach back for residents to enjoy as a peaceful oasis amidst the bustle of the city.”

Over the two months that she spent making the work, Teng got to know many of the area’s residents, and discovered some local joints. As a vegan, she recommends The Salad Corner and Peranakan-Thai restaurant Whole Earth. She also points out that SAM is a mere 15-minute walk away at Tanjong Pagar Distripark, where contemporary fine art galleries like Gajah Gallery and 39+ Art Space are also housed. 

Isabella Teng’s “Little Islands” (2023). Photo: Singapore Art Museum

Uncle Keng

Owner, Tong Mern Sern

Uncle Keng from Tong Mern Sern. Photo: Gwen Pew

“We buy junk and sell antiques. Some fools buy, some fools sell,” declares the faded yellow banner outside Tong Mern Sern. Tucked along a row of chic establishments – including newly-opened burger joint The Bank – Uncle Keng’s antique shop stands out like a time capsule. Every nook and cranny of the three-storey shophouse is stuffed with curiosities, from mooncake moulds to traditional ink paintings. A camera obscura sits quietly on the top floor, awaiting to be discovered.

“I always say, if you don’t want something, it’s garbage. But if you want it, it’s treasure,” says the 78-year-old Uncle Keng. “I always used to collect all kinds of rubbish when I was small. So now I just do what I like. Make so much money, for what?”

While Uncle Keng lives nearby and is friendly with most of his neighbours, he makes a brusque wave of the hand when asked about food recommendations, saying that he brings his own lunch every day. But when you do pay his treasure hut a visit, make sure you try a thyme-infused ice cream cone from Birds of Paradise next door, and check out local artist SKL0’s show-stopping mural, Community, located behind Shake Shack just up the road.

Tong Mern Sern’s fighting words have garnered it recognition around the neighbourhood. Photo: Shutterstock

Liu Weiqi

Sales Assistant, Grassroots Book Room

Liu Weiqi. Photo: Gwen Pew

Tucked away down Bukit Pasoh Road, Grassroots Book Room is the kind of cosy independent bookstore that rekindles your sense of wonder. Its shelves are lined with both Chinese and English titles, covering topics as diverse as politics, philosophy, and poetry. The cafe at the back of the shop also makes for a lovely nook to while away an afternoon.

“My favourite part about working here is engaging with readers who share a passion for writing,” says Liu Weiqi, who has been a bookseller there for three years. “The books, music and the aroma of coffee also makes this a nice place to find peace and calm.”

Photo: Grassroots Book Room

Liu is friendly with Ee Hoe Hean Club, the historic members-only social club for millionaires located just next door, as they consign magazines to Grassroots for sale. For something a bit more accessible, he recommends the coffee shop at 120 Neil Road. “I usually order the chicken rice or the soup bak chor mee at Soon Heng Pork Noodles – it’s a must try!”

Soon Heng Pork Noodles are also available onboard selected Singapore Airlines flights. Find out more here.

To learn more about Singapore Airlines’ flight service to Singapore, visit the official website.

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Why Cebu is the ideal location for business travel and team building

Produced by SilverKris for UHRI

Companies often need a change of scenery. When that time comes – whether planning an office retreat, or bringing entire branches together for an annual convention – Cebu offers a business-travel experience that delivers on multiple fronts.

Business-minded groups have everything they’ll need in the Philippines’ beloved Queen City of the South, and then some: toothsome Cebuano cuisine; scenic vistas for team-building adventures and group photos; and a variety of spaces for meetings, incentives, conferences & exhibitions (MICE) that cater to every industry and occasion.

They can even find all these under one roof at the recently opened NUSTAR Resort and Casino, Cebu’s most anticipated new property.

Tuck into mouthwatering lechon empanadas from Fili Hotel’s Lobby Lounge. Photo: UHRI

Bonding over Filipino food

Good food is mandatory for a true meeting of minds. That’s why, if you’re visiting Cebu with colleagues, dining on Cebu delicacies should be high on the agenda. How about building consensus over coffee and a crunchy otap puff? Exclusive to Fili Hotel’s Fili Lobby Lounge, the delectable pastry is a reimagination of the classic Cebuano otap, with yummy, gooey fillings. For something savoury but similarly light, try one or three lechon empanada, meat pies filled with Cebu’s signature roast pork. Or how about sweetening your corporate retreat with slices of brazo de Mercedes, a dessert composed of fluffy meringue coiled around a custard cream core?

Sink your teeth into these treats, a spacious and light-filled meeting place tailor-made for friendly encounters. Whether you’re convening in time for Filipino merienda (afternoon tea) or enjoying post-conference nightcaps, the Fili Lobby Lounge offers your team a convivial, welcoming space.

And if you want to participate in the beloved Filipino tradition of buying pasalubong (souvenirs for loved ones back home), the Fili Lobby Lounge also obliges: visitors can buy request to buy otap puffs, lechon empanada and brazo de Mercedes so they can take the Cebu experience home to share.

Scenic backdrops for team occasions

Sun-drenched Cebu seems to have been custom-made for team-building activities. Between Cebu City’s heritage architecture, Mactan’s beaches and Busay’s bird’s-eye views, business travellers can pick from a wide selection of team-building settings that suit any activity type and preference. Weather permitting, you can share beachfront experiences with your colleagues on the shores of Mactan Island, or tour cultural destinations like local guitar-making shops Alegre and Ferangeli and Magellan’s Cross at the Santo Niño de Cebu Basilica.

Don’t fly off without getting a group shot in Cebu – a heritage-based shot with the Mactan Shrine’s statue of Lapu-Lapu presiding overhead; or at the boardwalk with NUSTAR Resort and Casino’s two soaring towers in the distance.

The capacious ballroom at NUSTAR Convention Centre is perfect for large-scale events. Photo: UHRI

Spaces for all types of business events

Is your team ready to get your heads together? Whether you’re a dozen or numbering in the hundreds, you’ll find a space in Cebu that can accommodate your business conference or team-building retreat.

The NUSTAR Resort alone can cater to business get-togethers of any size, duration and intensity level. If you’ve invited multiple field offices from around the world to your event, best to kick your event off at the NUSTAR Convention Center, a versatile, multifunctional space with world-class amenities and gorgeous views of the sea.

The Convention Center can accommodate major corporate galas, with space for up to 2,000 attendees. Its individual exhibition halls can be customised to host seminars, team-building sessions and training initiatives. Organisers can also tap NUSTAR Convention Center’s bespoke event planning services to make their event impactful and memorable.

Sip on creative cocktails at AXIS Entertainment Bar. Photo: UHRI

Intimate mixers for smaller groups can take place at AXIS Bar, located right on the Casino floor. This 80-seat lounge is ideal for informal business gatherings, with its plush seats, live-entertainment stage and top-notch audiovisual facilities. Beyond the entertainment and atmosphere, guests also get access to AXIS’s craft cocktails and bar chow selections that reflect Filipino favourite drinking snacks, such as braised beef pares tacos, sizzling sisig, as well as fish and chips.

Cebu is open for business – and business travellers in town for a corporate get-together can find no better single location than the NUSTAR Resort and Casino, a luxury hotel and gaming complex in the gleaming South Road Properties located within the city centre. From five-star dining and drinking options to sumptuous hotel suites and spacious event spaces, this is the ideal venue for your organisation.

For more information about NUSTAR Resort and Casino, click here.

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Be a part of Korea’s post-pandemic obsession: camping

The concrete road narrows and our expectations sharpen as we putter past fields of mud and rice stalks to the entrance of Geumgwang Tourism Farm Campground. Headed for a camping weekend, my wife, young son and I left Seoul behind some two hours ago. We exchanged looming high-end apartment complexes and 10-lane highways for this rural valley enfolded by round hills of shaggy green oak. Our destination is southwest of the capital, right on the border of Gyeonggi Province, which despite its 13 million residents is mainly covered with farmland and forest.

On arrival at Geumgwang, we’re greeted heartily by the site’s young owner, Lee Jae-hyeong, who leads us to our pitch on his quad bike. The plot is past an ornamental pond,  in a wide meadow dotted with Asian pear trees and jagged boulders. Our neighbours have all set up camp already. I quickly realise that our five-person dome tent is humble by comparison. Many of the nearby tents have foyers, living rooms and bedrooms; I spy comfortable looking camp beds promising undisturbed sleep. Fence-like partitions offer privacy, and string lights adorning some tents give a cheerful and characterful effect.

Camping in style. Photo: Li Yang via Unsplash

Unlike in my native Canada, Korean-style camping feels more like glamping or “glamorous-camping”, given the amenities and creature comforts that the locals bring to this outdoor activity. Peeking into some of the neighbouring plots, I see whole families sprawled out watching TV shows or Disney films using compact projectors and screens. Seamlessly, they’ve reassembled their living rooms under the shade of tall pines.

Korea’s booming post-pandemic pastime

Camping in Korea was already popular, but began to really make its mark here during the pandemic, when the nearly 30 million Koreans who usually travelled abroad annually were forced by circumstance to holiday closer to home. In a country that doesn’t lack for mountains, valleys, lakes, islands and beaches, camping was the perfect way to enjoy these in a time of social distancing.

According to Statistics Korea, the number of locals who go camping each year almost doubled during the pandemic, rising from 3 million to over 7 million. And the industry itself grew about 89.7% from 2019 to 2021, reaching approximately US$5.5 billion in market size.

The pastime has become so popular that campers have to book weeks or months in advance despite the hundreds of campgrounds across Korea to choose from. Thankfully, we managed to find a spot using the Korean web portal Naver – which brought us to Geumgwang Tourism Farm Campground. 

A respite for the whole family 

As we set up our camp, the sun sinks behind a high ridge, darkening the dense green slopes, making them seem more mysterious and impenetrable. Down here in the valley, though, the light grows thinner and more delicate, bringing a sense of calm.

I head off with my son to explore the campground. There’s a carefree mood in the air, as if everyone’s spirits are buoyed by the invigorating power of nature. The children have taken full reign of this vast expanse, running about and shouting excitedly, while the grown-ups keep a watchful eye as they recline in cosy camping chairs.

Kids enjoying the trampoline at a Korean campground. Photo: Matthew Crawford

I discover a supersized trampoline hall, where curious kids jump over and pummel me with questions: “Where are you from?” “Can you speak Korean?” “How long are you staying?” 

Aside from this popular bouncy hall, camp facilities such as the billiard room, table-tennis room, arcade machine gallery, café and swimming pool ensure that campers are well-entertained during their time here. 

Owner Lee explains that the campground began as a family business in 2015. “The pandemic really accelerated the interest in camping,” he says. “Originally, half our business was hosting company workshops, but when my parents fell ill, we switched exclusively to camping – this was around 2020. It was actually great timing for us.”

Feasting and reflection around the fire

Back at our tent, we stick sausages and veggie dogs on skewers to cook over our campfire. This typical Canadian campsite fare is somewhat overshadowed by the rich aroma of barbecued meat wafting over from the portable grills that surround us. Clearly, for Korean campers, feasting is the highlight of the experience. Families break out their strips of pork belly and prime cuts of Hanwoo (native Korean beef); out of nowhere appear spicy stews, bowls of rice and all manner of side dishes. One couple nearby has even brought and assembled a portable deep fryer in order to enjoy pork cutlets in the fresh air.

Campfire cooking. Photo: Shutterstock

Meanwhile the flames of portable fire pits that sit outside many of the tents are not for cooking over, it seems. Though hand-split wood burns in them every night, they appear to have a more decorative purpose. On my way to the dishwashing station, I pass by a man sitting alone, staring into his fire with a distant look on his face. “What’s he doing?” I ask my wife.

She explains that this is a new camping craze called bulmeong (staring at a fire and zoning out). The phenomenon, which has been celebrated in the local media, is simply a way of escaping from the stresses of daily life. While it’s not as profound as meditation, it strikes me as a primal pursuit — maybe the ultimate way to unplug from our devices and sink back into a timeless state of mind.

An open fire can be mesmerising. Photo: Joshua Newton via Unsplash

After a surprisingly restful sleep on our air mattress, we start the next morning by grilling pancakes on our portable stove. But our son has made friends with a boy of the same age at the tent next door and decides he likes their Korean-style breakfast better. To thank them for feeding him rice cake soup, we bring over some pancakes. Our neighbours give us some roasted chestnuts in return. 

A nation reconnecting with nature

Chatting with the boy’s mother, Cho Nam-mi, I learn that the family started camping during the pandemic, less than two years ago. Cho, who works as a travel agent, reflects that eating and drinking in the open air appeals to her because of the cheerful and celebratory mood that she associates with it. She says, “I like the feeling of sitting outdoors, gazing at trees and mountains. When we eat something, it feels like we’re eating in a pojangmacha (awning-covered Korean street-food stall/bar).”

As comfortable and indulgent as Korean camping is, its popularity is perhaps linked to a rekindling of Koreans’ attachment to nature, as can be seen in nationwide booms in hiking and trail running, as well as the trend for city dwellers to retire to the countryside. It seems to feed a need many Koreans are missing in their daily lives.

Cho puts it simply: “These days, there aren’t many chances to gaze outward into nature. When we go camping, we can really admire the clear, open sky.”

People camping out along the Geum River in winter. Photo: Shutterstock

Sights and bites around Geumgwang

After packing up our tent, we drive to nearby Geumgwang Lake, stopping for lunch at the colourfully named Hwangtokotture (Red Clay Cow Nose Ring). There we gaze at fishermen planted around the lakeshore while having hot spoonfuls of cheonggukjang (a rich, pungent stew made from fermented soybeans). 

A bit further down the road, we stop for coffee at Chatjipyanggi (Tea House Aroma), a cosy, rustic spot that serves shaved ice with red bean paste. We conclude our trip by sharing a large, refreshing bowl of this soothing dessert. It’s the perfect combination of simple, homely and indulgent to finish off a weekend of getting back to nature without leaving all our creature comforts behind.

Tips for camping near Seoul 

Geumgwang is a bring-your-own-gear site, but there are plenty of other camping grounds that offer spacious tents to rent that are already set up, such as Lohas Campground (see below). Camping gear of all kinds can also be rented from suppliers such as Starcamp, though travellers should note that gear rental shops tend to cater to a Korean-speaking crowd. 

Here are some options for those seeking to experience camping in Korea:

Lohas Campground

Within view of a surreal hilltop sculpture called Greetingman, Lohas Campground is well-run and meticulously managed. Its family-friendly draws include a pool and a summer sledding ramp. It’s about two hours north of Seoul, a stone’s throw from the border with North Korea.

Jaraseom Campground 

The wide, spacious Jaraseom Campground is next to Jara Island, where Korea’s premier jazz festival is held each autumn. It takes about an hour and 40 minutes to reach from Seoul, driving eastward towards rugged, mountainous Gangwon Province.

Travellers should note that many websites for campsite reservation and camping amenities tend to cater to the local market, and are hence set up with Korean speakers in mind. Do consult Google Translate, a friendly Korean speaker or hotel concierge to make campsite bookings if you need it.

For more information on Singapore Airlines flights to Seoul, click here.

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Shelter

Produced by SilverKris for Shelter

An enchanting oasis in Pererenan, Shelter is an exciting newcomer to the island where Chef Stephen Moore weaves Middle Eastern and Mediterranean flavours into his creations – hot favourites include the barbequed octopus with whipped potato tortilla, lemon oil and bottarga, as well as the chermoula-crusted chicken. This open-air, Joglo-style (traditional Javanese hut) restaurant is swathed in lush greenery, an idyllic backdrop for your gastronomic exploration. Indulge in off-menu surprises while savouring a selection of 80 wines, ranging from chardonnays and crisp Italians to creamy oaked Americans, as well as sparkling, rosé, orange and natural wines. Alternatively, sip on artisanal cocktails at the street bar that are crafted using Bali’s finest ingredients.

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Seeing Auckland from a different perspective with flight stewardess Priscilla Ong

 

This article is part of Singapore Airlines’ “Beyond the Cabin” video series, in which cabin crew explore their favourite cities and share how their hobbies enrich their service delivery.

 

Singapore Airlines flight stewardess Priscilla Ong sees the world through a different lens – quite literally. The 35-year-old is an avid shutterbug and has been dabbling in photography since she was 19, when she received a Holga film camera as a gift. “I’ve been obsessed with photography ever since, and it is my preferred medium of expression. There’s something magical about freezing a moment in time forever, and looking for beauty in whatever form it takes,” she shares.  

Today, Priscilla particularly enjoys immersing in – and snapping photos of – nature during her travels with Singapore Airlines. “I’m especially drawn to pristine, off-the-beaten-track destinations. Being outdoors helps me to connect with nature and reminds me of how small we are in the universe, as well as how fortunate I am to experience the wonders of life,” she says.

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Off the Radar: Pine trees and cerulean seas off the coast of Istanbul

Soaring downhill too fast on a shaky rental bicycle, I imagine the contents of my front basket catapulting all over the road. After what felt like ages of pedalling uphill – which in reality was simply 15 minutes – I hit the jackpot as a glorious cliffside stretch of Heybeliada’s western shore greets me. Gravity extends an invitation for a little rollercoaster ride, and I accept. With nothing but lofty trees and the twinkling Sea of Marmara as my audience, I think, “There are certainly worse places to pick up all of one’s belongings off the road.”

Princes’ Islands: home of aristocrats and exiled royalty 

There’s a lot to love about Heybeliada, the second-largest of the nine Princes’ Islands, or Prens Adalari as locals call it. The archipelago’s name dates back to the Byzantine period, when royal princes and empresses were exiled there. Later on, during the Ottoman period, the islands became a vacation hotspot for Istanbul’s wealthy. The cerulean water and skyline create monochromatic magic at its finest, while the Byzantine-era architecture dot the island’s hillside, with orange-hued rooftops that stand out against ocean and pine. Victorian-style homes, with their charming wooden detailing, beckon. Greek, Armenian and Jewish communities brought different influences to the islands, which explains the mix of architecture.

Heybeliada, Istanbul. Photo: Shutterstock

These islands – just five of which are inhabited – lie one hour from the buzz and bustle of Istanbul, reachable by boat from the Bosphorus port. In the height of summer, expect Istanbul’s crowds to board the ferry with you. June through August are the high season here, and it shows. It’s now October first, and this ferry still mimics a can of sardines. 

“Everyone goes to Büyükada, the biggest island,” my Turkish friend Eylül tells me. “But Heybeliada is my favourite.” I take her word for it, and it’s looking promising thus far. 

A car-free refuge for walkers and cyclists

Before I can find some wheels, the trinket-filled interior of Ezop Cafe catches my eye. In a narrow maroon corner building overlooking İşgüzar, the town’s central street, the cafe’s sun-drenched tables are prime for people-watching. After a kasar peynirli tost – that’s Turkish for grilled cheese – I’m ready. A few steps and about 30 Turkish Lira later, I’ve become the proud (temporary) owner of a nondescript-brand bike with a big old basket on its handlebars.

Trinkets, art, and a drink menu in the window of Ezop Cafe. Photo: Sarah Lempa

Fuel for the road: grilled cheese, or kasar peynirli tost. Photo: Sarah Lempa

Cycling the roughly 6km route around Heybeliada isn’t a massive journey; one can circumnavigate the island on foot in less than two hours. Stopping off to enjoy the sights, however, easily doubles this amount of time. As I cycle uphill, the town’s low hum dissipates behind me. I soon have the entire route to myself, reaching what appears to be a brief plateau.

Minutes later, I welcome a downhill slope. My belongings somehow stay in my basket throughout what feels like a perpetual yet effortless cruise. The shady road Alp Görüngen Yolu takes me to the westernmost point of Heybeliada, where nothing but rugged, untouched coastline lies below. Eyeing a spot just off the road at the tip of the cliff, I’m suddenly sold on parking to string up my hammock.

The shaded route of Alp Görüngen Yolu. Photo: Sarah Lempa

Flanked by pine trees, I can see Burgazada, the third-largest of the Princes’ Islands, in the distance. Half the island is decorated with human activity, whereas the other half looks like something out of the movie Castaway if Tom Hanks had washed up in Turkey instead of Fiji. Even farther off, the sprawling coast of eastern Istanbul looms. Peering south, there’s nothing but a mirror-like line between sea and sky.

My reverie ends when a few men in what appear to be firefighter uniforms make it clear – in Turkish – that we are not supposed to be out here. It was never my intention to kick back in a non-permitted area, but I revel in the minutes I had. A word of advice: Look for signs before walking off the road, even if they’re in Turkish. They’re worth a translation.

I continue around the island on my bike, and at some point the road snakes to the left, revealing a dazzling view of Pine Harbour Bay. In this horseshoe-shaped bend, dozens of boats bob gently in the sapphire-toned waters.

Pine Harbour Bay, dotted with boats. Photo: Sarah Lempa

From here, I have a sweeping view of Büyükada in the distance. I now find myself standing in the middle of this road thinking about how people often think bigger equals better. While I’m sure it’s equally lovely, I now get why Heybeliada is Eylül’s favorite. There’s not another soul in sight on this bend of the road. Mother Nature has spoiled me with a postcard setting for one, something quite rare in today’s world of often crowded and tourist-filled destinations.

How to get from Istanbul to Princes’ Islands

Regardless of where you stay in Istanbul, you’ll most likely be quite close to a ferry terminal with direct routes to the Princes’ Islands. If staying on the European side, you can get on a boat from Eminönü, Karaköy or Kabataş terminals. From the Asian side, hop on at Kadiköy. You’ll be there in around an hour from each starting point.

Passengers arriving at Heybeliada ferry terminal. Photo: Shutterstock

Where to stay in Istanbul

In a city as populous as Istanbul, you’re spoiled for choice with accommodation, whether you’re after ornately designed hotels steps from bazaars or sumptuous stays overlooking the Bosphorus River. Here are but two options that are well-connected for those looking to explore Princes’ Islands:  

Pera Palace Hotel

Replete with history yet timelessly elegant, Pera Palace Hotel dates back to 1892 with an original purpose of hosting travellers of the historical passenger service Orient Express. Located in the heart of the Europe side of Istanbul, it’s right near all of the action – as well as the ferry terminals.

Sumahan on the Water

Just steps from the Bosphorus River on the Asia side of Istanbul, Sumahan on the Water is a former distillery converted into a boutique hotel. It’s easy to catch ferries to the Princes’ Islands from here.

Singapore Airlines flies directly to Istanbul, Turkey. To book a flight or learn more, visit the official website.

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Singapore: A small city-state with huge influence

Produced by SilverKris for Singapore Management University Lee Kong Chian School of Business

On the world map, it’s hard to make out the little red dot that is Singapore, which measures just 728km² – or 459 times smaller than neighbouring Malaysia. But despite its size, it wields significant global clout. In recent years, that clout is not just economic, but also cultural.

Recently, the city-state has been making headlines for all the right reasons: monthly visitors are exceeding a million, while a record number of foreigners are investing in local property. Plus, in what’s perhaps the strongest testament to the city’s growing cultural cachet, the Financial Times has crowned Singapore “Asia’s official capital of cool”.

So why is Singapore thriving? Here, we speak to four experts – in industries ranging from hospitality and F&B to smart buildings and architecture – for their perspective on what makes the city the place to be.

Building on a strong foundation

Part of the answer lies in Singapore’s built environment. As a tiny island, Singapore has always had to grapple with the issue of land scarcity. Today, however, just about every square inch of the city has been carefully optimised thanks to astute urban planning – several decades’ worth, in fact.

SMU EMBA alum Daniel Liu (right) credits both a great urban planning and forward-thinking private sector with Singapore's success. Photo courtesy of Daniel Liu

SMU EMBA alum Alexander Siemes applauds Singapore's use of technology to battle climate change. Photo courtesy of Alexander Siemes

Singapore’s success didn’t happen by accident. It took a very methodical 30-year plan for us to get here

“Singapore’s success didn’t happen by accident. Back in the 1960s, our leaders had a very clear idea of what long-term economic and urban development should look like,” says Daniel Liu, Executive Director of urban advisory firm MORROW Intelligence. “It took a very methodical 30-year plan for us to get here.”

Of course, private enterprise has also played a key role. “We’ve gone through that period of structured development, and now the conditions are right for experts in the field to strike it out on their own,” Daniel says.

He attributes this partly to programmes such as Singapore Management University’s Executive Master of Business Administration (EMBA) – of which he is an alum – where business leaders come together to solve the challenges of tomorrow as part of its distinctive hands-on curriculum. “For instance, we have people developing smart tools for tracking city metrics, and consultants coming up with new ways of thinking about placemaking. There’s a lot of exciting stuff happening.”

A showcase for urban transformation

Today, Singapore is a colourful yet coherent mix of old and new. In Chinatown, for example, visitors will find carefully conserved heritage shophouses flanked by gleaming skyscrapers. Outside of the downtown core, you’ll discover a series of vibrant heartland neighbourhoods – some featuring 1930s Art Deco architecture.

Other areas are prime laboratories of cutting-edge technology. A prime example of the latter is the Punggol Digital District, which will have a high-tech pneumatic waste collection system and a smart energy grid when it launches in 2024.

“Singapore is making full use of modern technology to push the boundaries of what it means to be a smart city,” says SMU EMBA alumnus Alexander Siemes, who heads the Digital Service Center (Middle East and Asia Pacific) at Siemens. “This will be a great showcase of urban transformation.”

Buildings such as the foliage-covered PARKROYAL COLLECTION Pickering make the Singapore urban environment pleasant and liveable. Photo: Shutterstock.com

The city’s meticulous urban planning is underpinned by a deep commitment to sustainability. “What Singapore has embraced really well is the idea of biophilic architecture – where the boundary between the outside environment and the inside environment is blurred,” Daniel says. Take, for instance, the PARKROYAL COLLECTION Pickering hotel in the central business district, an architectural feat festooned with lush vertical gardens and plant-filled balconies.

As Alexander adds, Singapore is also addressing the climate crisis through initiatives like the Singapore Green Plan 2030, which includes material targets such as quadrupling solar energy deployment by 2025 and reducing the amount of waste sent to landfill by 30% in 2030. “This long-term mindset, for me, is a decisive factor that makes Singapore so attractive,” he says.

Welcoming visitors with top-notch experiences

This progressive outlook is similarly embodied in Singapore’s flourishing hospitality industry, which is expected to cater to over 12 million visitors in 2023.

“Singapore has some of the best infrastructure in terms of building design and efficiency, waste management and technology. This gives our hospitality industry an edge against that of many other countries,” says Philip Cyril Raj, the CEO of independent hotel group Bay Hotels & Resorts. “Plus, our hotels and restaurants continue to evolve through refurbishments and better offerings.”

Singapore’s heritage luxury hotels are well conserved, giving the city an edge over competitors. Photo: Raffles Hotel Singapore

A case in point is the iconic Raffles Hotel, which reopened its doors in 2019 to much fanfare after a multi-million-dollar facelift. In the same vein, the Mandarin Oriental, Singapore is currently undergoing a comprehensive refurbishment – its first in decades.

A food scene unlike any other

Elsewhere, it’s hardly surprising that the food-obsessed city’s top establishments regularly feature on “best of” lists every year. For instance, nine local venues, including fine-dining mecca Odette and barbecue joint Burnt Ends, were recently named among Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2023. In fact, just this month, Odette won the #14 spot on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list this year and the accolade of Best Restaurant in Asia. Then there’s also the flourishing bar scene, which draws cocktail connoisseurs from all over the world.

Odette was recently crowned the best restaurant in Asia. Photo: Odette

“Singapore’s F&B landscape has definitely become more vibrant and cosmopolitan over the years,” observes Jeanne Liu, co-founder of Rich and Good Cake Shop. Her business, started at home with her mum almost 30 years ago, has grown through word-of-mouth to become a local institution with a digital presence – inspiring Jeanne herself to go back to school for an EMBA at SMU and upskill herself.

Like many traditional brands in Singapore, it has also benefited from government funding such as the Productivity Solutions Grant (PSG), through which the company was able to launch its game-changing e-commerce platform. “We opened back in 1997 in the heartlands, and a lot has changed since then. For example, the Michelin Guide came to Singapore in 2016, and there are so many different types of good food available now.”

An EMBA from SMU gave Jeanne Liu (centre) new perspective on expanding her heritage business. Photo courtesy of Jeanne Liu

SMU alum and hotelier Philip Cyril believes Singapore's hospitality landscape is second to none. Photo courtesy of Philip Cyril Raj

A vibrant multicultural landscape

This wonderfully diverse culinary scene is, in part, a natural byproduct of the city’s multicultural makeup. “One of Singapore’s more unique characteristics is that we have a wonderful coexistence of cultures, and you see it everywhere. When you think about our food, there are Chinese versions of nasi lemak, Malay versions of chicken rice and Indian versions of rojak,” Daniel says. “I think it’s important for visitors to Singapore to have a little understanding of how special the relationship is between the different cultures.”

Indeed, it’s this harmony in diversity that makes Alexander, a German native, grateful to call Singapore home. “It comes down to the simple things. I love Singapore’s variety of food, friendly people and general openness to be a multicultural nation,” he says. “Having a kopi-o at my neighbourhood hawker, chatting with the aunty who has been running it for 20 years, meeting friends over some roti prata to discuss plans for the evening… I’m loving it, and Singapore will always have a special place in my heart.”

 

For more information on the EMBA programme at Singapore Management University Lee Kong Chian School of Business, click here.

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Discover Colombo’s hottest stays, sights, shopping and more

After the political upheaval last year, Sri Lanka has bounced back, and it’s time for a visit to Colombo. A seaside city with a flourishing heritage scene, Colombo is the perfect start (or end) to any Sri Lankan holiday. The capital was built on, and is home to some postcard-perfect colonial-era monuments – and of course, famous residences and buildings by its most famous architect, Geoffrey Bawa.

A city that is constantly transforming, parts of Colombo are now gentrifying with new upscale shopping hubs, high-rise developments and a swanky port city. Add to this the multicultural neighbourhoods teeming with temples, mosques, churches and buzzing markets with fresh produce.

Here’s our lowdown on the very best that Colombo has to offer – as well as a few getaways just beyond.

Where to stay in and around Colombo

Jetwing Colombo Seven

Right by the tree-lined stretch of Ward Place and just two streets from Viharamahadevi Park stands Jetwing Colombo Seven, the local hotel brand’s metropolitan addition with deluxe rooms, studios and apartments that offer city views. Its restobar Ward 7 sits by the hotel’s rooftop infinity pool and serves island-influenced nibbles like devilled pork marinated with chilli, deep-fried and mixed with curry. If you’re looking for a feel of the city’s local nightlife, ask the concierge about the hotel’s cheekily named “Dodgy Bar Tour”.

Jetwing Colombo Seven

De Saram House

Legendary Sri Lankan architect Geoffrey Bawa has given the island many stunning public buildings and luxury hotels, the latter often booked up months in advance. But Tropical Modernism fans short on time (and funds) can snag a night or two at this bed and breakfast in the heart of Colombo. Bawa renovated it as a private home for renowned Sri Lankan concert pianist Druvi de Saram in 1986, and it’s currently maintained by the Geoffrey Bawa Trust. Spacious and characterful rooms aside, the highlights of the gracefully aging property are its clay-coloured courtyard and the art-filled piano room (request a tour from the property manager).

Photo: De Saram House

Cape Weligama

A two-hour drive south from Colombo, passing the heritage city of Galle, Cape Weligama is a Relais & Chateaux resort that delivers breathtaking views at every turn. Enjoy a vista of the Indian Ocean with your made-to-order breakfast at Ocean Terrace, reflect on the waves from the infinity-style Half Moon Pool or soak up the sunset light on the surf over a private dinner from one of the viewpoints. The villas – named after historic explorers – come with enormous bathrooms, dressing rooms and mod-cons such as top-notch Bluetooth speakers. Depending on the season, the waters around Weligama are also ideal for surfing and whale-watching, which the hotel will be glad to arrange.

Photo: Cape Weligama

Photo: Cape Weligama

Where to eat in Colombo

Nuga Gama

Rice and curry are staples of Sri Lankan cuisine, and Nuga Gama offers an authentic place to try it. Set around a 200-year-old banyan tree inside the luxe city hotel Cinnamon Grand, this rustic restaurant only open for dinner creates a Sri Lankan village feel with its in-house organic farm, kerosene lanterns and women chefs dishing up classic Sri Lankan fare passed down through the generations. The restaurant’s live stations dish up classic Sri Lankan street food like appam, or egg hoppers (bowl-shaped snacks topped with an egg) and kottu roti (chopped flatbread mashed with vegetables, egg and a meat of your choice).

Photo: Nuga Gama Colombo

Monsoon

Well-placed on the vibrant entertainment street of Park Street Mews, Monsoon is the place to go to for a taste of Southeast Asia. The lunch menu offers classic plates like nasi lemak (coconut rice served with spicy chili paste, anchovies, peanuts and boiled egg) and pad thai (stir-fried rice noodles) while dinner features Malaysian tauhu bakar, grilled crispy tofu plated with mango salad. There’s also a selection of local spirits like Rockland gin and arrack. The fine-dining venue’s high ceilings and chic decor make it a prime date spot.

Baked Pumpkin & Custard Cake with Honey. Photo: Monsoon

Monsoon's Chicken Satay. Photo: Monsoon

Where to drink in Colombo

Uncle’s

One of several hotspots along the pedestrian-only Park Street Mews – where Colombo’s well-dressed hipsters congregate – Uncle’s stands out with its retro-chic signage and interiors, DJ nights and classic cocktails with Sri Lankan twists. The Amba Martini features mango and spices, while the Kolompuré Manhattan sees rye whiskey replaced with arrack and the vermouth infused with cardamom and nutmeg. The bar bites are also standouts – cancel your dinner plans and order hearty “short eats” such as the lamb rolls and cheese toast.

Photo: Uncle’s

Smoke & Bitters

Ranked #42 by Asia’s 50 Best Bars, Smoke & Bitters is well worth the two hours’ drive along the Southern Expressway from Colombo. It’s a charming spot within a coconut garden in the country’s latest surf town Hiriketiya, and the cocktail list is all about championing island spirits and local ingredients. Drinks include rum cocktails blended with sundried stoneapple flower and arrack paired with banana peel and smoked wild bee honey. The equally outstanding smokehouse menu offers pulled pork, smoked jackfruit and chargrilled barramundi.

Photo: Smoke & Bitters

Related

Colombo

Click here for the full City Guide

What to do in Colombo

A quick online search would turn up sights the likes of Colombo Fort, Seema Malaka Lake Temple and Jami Ul-Alfar Masjid (also known as the Red Mosque) as must-see attractions when visiting Colombo. But here are a couple of stops that, in our humble opinion, are not to be missed – especially for the heritage and art enthusiast.

Gangaramaya Temple

Boasting an extensive collection of artefacts, this sacred Buddhist temple located close to Beira Lake was established 120 years ago. Two Buddha statues guard the temple’s wooden door entrance, which features intricate traditional-style elephant and swan carvings. The in-house museum showcases antiques such as sculptures of Hindu gods, vintage coins and watches. Then there’s the country’s smallest Buddha statue housed in a glass box, only viewed by a magnifying glass. Remember to dress modestly when you visit.

Photo: Shutterstock

Saskia Fernando Gallery

This contemporary gallery – the first of its kind in Colombo – spotlights the works of young local artists and island natives. Since it opened in 2009, this independently-run space has helped elevate Colombo’s art scene with exhibitions throughout the year. Featured artists include Firi Rahman and Shaanea Mendis, whose works both explore the relationship between man and nature in different ways.

Photo: Saskia Fernando Gallery

Where to shop in Colombo

Paradise Road

Paradise Road is among the most renowned homeware and decor brands in Colombo. Their flagship store opposite Viharamahadevi Park sells a curated collection of handicrafts, antiques and hand-painted crockery, crafted by skilled artisans from cottage industries across Sri Lanka. Other items on offer include batik napkins, table runners, scented candles and quirky door stoppers. An in-store cafe serves coffee and great cakes.

Photo: Paradise Road

Urban Island

The neighbourhood surrounding Viharamhadevi Park continues to attract trendy, upmarket retail stores. And everything at Urban Island is a conscious nod to the slow, tropical life of Sri Lanka. This lively concept store deals in handmade cushion covers made using heritage techniques, cane furniture and jute rugs. Don’t miss its planters made with sundried palmyrah palm leaves, dyed and hand-woven into intricate designs by women in Sri Lanka’s north.

Photo: Urban Island

For our full list on things to do and places to see in Colombo, check out our Colombo City Guide. For more information on Singapore Airlines flights to Colombo, visit the official website. 

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Singapores young farmers are starting a food revolution

A ferocious morning sun beats down on the Sky Sprouts rooftop garden in Bukit Timah, a lush, upscale residential area deep in central Singapore. Farmer Benjamin Ang enters his greenhouse, followed by his beloved Shetland sheepdog Natsuki. He reaches down to pluck a beefsteak tomato and offers it up to us. One bite yields tart, juicy goodness.

“In our culture, meat is always considered to be superior, but every plant has its own strength and story,” says the 34-year-old founder of specialty fruit and vegetable producer Natsuki’s Garden. “My hope is that my produce can inspire emotions… nourish the soul as much as the body.”

Armed with a degree in horticultural sciences, Farmer Ben – as he’s known – has also worked at Singapore’s National Parks Board for six years and has experience as a horticulture consultant. It’s no surprise that he has gained something of a reputation locally and internationally as an innovator in urban sustainable farming. 

Benjamin Ang with his Shetland Natsuki, as he shows off the shishito pepper he grew. Photo: Toh Ee Ming

Juicy beefsteak tomatoes from Natsuki's Garden. Photo: Toh Ee Ming

An avid tinkerer, he codes his own electronic controls. He also uses 3D modelling and printing to make custom components for his cutting-edge farming equipment. Realising that most traditional horticultural structures are designed for temperate climates, he created an innovative V-shaped roof for his garden’s greenhouses, which allows hot air to escape quickly and maintains ideal temperatures in Singapore’s tropical heat.

Natsuki’s Garden produces heirloom and speciality herbs and vegetables that are hard to source at a high quality in Singapore – such as cherry and beefsteak tomatoes, melons, cucumbers, aubergines, Japanese turnips, beetroots, carrots, Jerusalem artichokes and Japanese mountain yams. These are sold to the public on site and also to local private chefs and omakase restaurants, such as Province and Kausmo.

Making farming fun, cool and accessible

In 2019, Singapore announced its “30 by 30” goal to meet 30 percent of its nutritional needs locally by 2030, up from less than 10 per cent today. With lack of farmland in the city-state and a huge reliance on imported food, there is an urgency to grow for more self-sufficiency, through modern techniques such as vertical farming, hydroponics and aeroponics. 

This has inspired a community movement, with rooftop gardens, community farms and vertical green spaces popping up around Singapore. One of these is City Sprouts, the social enterprise behind Sky Sprouts – where Farmer Ben has his rooftop garden – which transforms under-utilised urban locations into green, vibrant, inclusive spaces.

City Sprouts’ urban farm at the former Henderson Secondary School. Photo: City Sprouts

Its first urban farm was created in an old secondary school in the residential Redhill district in central Singapore. After Sky Sprouts, a third farm, Life Sprouts, was created at Punggol East in May 2023. 

“City Sprouts is all about bringing the farm closer to people in the city, especially for those who live in high-rise apartments,” says the organisation’s co-founder Simone Lim.

City Sprouts spreads its message – and produce – with farmers’ markets, farm-to-table dinners, film screenings and wellness activities for green-conscious visitors and residents. It has a network of 70 community farmers, agritech startups and agripreneurs.

Harnessing technology for sustainable fish farming

In the rolling countryside around Sungei Tengah where few tourists venture, fish such as barramundi, Queensland groupers, dragon tiger groupers, red snappers and vannamei shrimps are being produced at one of Singapore’s few land-based fish farms, Atlas Aquaculture.

Husband-and-wife team Kane Mcguinn from Australia and Singaporean Victoria Yoong typify Singapore’s new generation of sustainable food producers. Curious, energetic and creative, the couple met during the building of the SEA Aquarium – Yoong was part of the project management team while Mcguinn was the design consultant. Food security had become a hot topic during the pandemic, and the pair believed they could make a difference.

Atlas Aquaculture’s Kane Mcguinn and Victoria Yoong. Photo: Atlas Aquaculture

Many of Singapore’s sea-based farms along the coast are at the mercy of the environment, algae bloom, oil spills due to vessel collisions and low dissolved oxygen levels in water. Some land-based farms truck in sea water, which is costly and polluted. They felt compelled to build and engineer an entirely different and self-sufficient system. 

“Traditional farming is so far in the past,” says Mcguinn, “so even making small tweaks can be a really big change.” Atlas is looking to revolutionise fish farming by exploring new, more sustainable materials, and experimenting with nanobubble technology to reduce harmful chemical use. A closed-loop system recycles and reuses 100 per cent of water used at the farm. 

The same attributes that start-ups and big tech firms like Amazon and Google are looking for, we’re looking for as well

Yoong says this high-tech approach is the future: “Farming isn’t just about menial labour. You need to be open-minded, flexible, have some understanding of math, science, technology… the same attributes that start-ups and big tech firms like Amazon and Google are looking for, we’re looking for as well.”

And they’re finding this talent locally. The farm operations team has four young farmers and two interns with backgrounds in animal studies, pharmaceutical science, building and construction. 

Queensland Grouper at feeding time. Photo: Toh Ee Ming

After navigating bureaucratic red tape, struggling for funding and fighting misconceptions about the superiority of wild-caught versus farmed fish, Mcguinn and Yoong are finding success. They currently supply their fish to popular seafood restaurant Jumbo Seafood and premium lifestyle destination Resorts World Sentosa. Visitors can also sample Atlas’ catch at restaurants by the Les Amis group, which runs some of Singapore’s most coveted eateries including their eponymous three-Michelin starred restaurant. 

A multisensorial experience at a rooftop bee farm

The future of food security is in large part dependent on the fate of bees, whose populations are dwindling due to the use of harmful agricultural chemicals, climate change and habitat loss. Educating people about the importance of bees is the inspiration behind The Sundowner – Nature Experience Space, a rooftop farm created by seasoned entrepreneur and urban farmer Clarence Chua. 

Perched above a conserved shophouse in the charming eastern neighbourhood of Siglap, the space is filled with the fragrance of sage, rosemary, laksa leaves and Thai basil. Here, Chua offers rooftop farming, pizza-making, cocktail appreciation and terrarium-making workshops, but the real stars here are the bees.

The Sundowner's Clarence Chua, feeding the bees. Photo: Toh Ee Ming

Hungry bees at The Sundowner. Photo: Toh Ee Ming

Guests can don protective suits to observe the hives of Asian honey bees, red dwarf honeybees and stingless bees and learn all about them – how they fan their wings to cool down the temperature within their hives and huddle together for warmth, and how their favourite plants are calliandra and coral vine. Then everyone gets to participate in a honey-tasting session to appreciate the tastes, textures and colours of honey from all around the world.

Worldly and articulate, Chua’s goal is to educate the public about these insects’ invaluable role in pollinating the world’s food crops. “We want to show urban dwellers that everything is connected in nature: when healthy plants get pollinated by bees, they bear healthy and nutritious fruits and flowers for us to eat.”

Inter-generational evolution in farming 

There’s room for traditional farmers in Singapore’s food production revolution too, such as second-generation farmer Toh Ying Ying. She was born the same year in which her father, Alan Toh, founded his farm. While other children made sandcastles at the beach, Toh and her younger brother Zheng Jie were building soil castles in the fields.

The patriarch’s passion for vegetables has helped their business, Yili Farm at Lim Chu Kang in the northern reaches of Singapore, become one of Singapore’s leading local vegetable producers. Yili supplies major supermarket chains like FairPrice and Sheng Siong, and also sells through online platforms like Amazon Fresh and Redmart.

The Tohs of Yili Farm. Photo: Yili Farm

In 2019 Alan Toh was told the lease on his land wouldn’t be renewed, so the rest of the family decided to pitch in, learning everything from germination, harvesting and packing to liaising with distributors and suppliers. “We have a lot of deep feelings about the farm,” explains the younger Toh. 

Now, they’re moving to a new, bigger site at Neo Tiew. With this move, they’ll be exploring greater sustainability measures too, such as a mix of growing in soil, indoor farming and hydroponics. They also plan to open the farm to the public for weekend markets and educational tours.

Fostering new careers in farming

Encouraging a new generation of Singaporeans to become involved in modern farming is a major inspiration for Natsuki Garden’s Benjamin Ang. He educates fellow producers, such as Artisan Green – an indoor farm in Kallang, where Ang works as head of horticulture – but also the public, about the complexity involved in farming in Singapore.

With high-tech farming still in its infancy, Singapore lacks access to many technologies that other food-producing nations have, so solutions need to be built from the ground up, he says. “Growing vegetables is easy. Growing vegetables in a way that is economically viable, in a country with sky-high labour costs – that’s extremely difficult.”

As schools encourage and explore new career paths in this field, City Sprouts is doing its part to help sow seeds of interest in the younger generation. Most recently, the team helped judge a “farm-a-thon”, where local students across Singapore proposed solutions for the country’s food security challenges.

Aquaculturists Yoong and Mcguinn, too, hope to spread the word about their innovative approach: “We want to show everything: the bad, the good, the ugly. We need to take active steps for future generations to understand more about the food they eat,” says Yoong.

For Toh, the message is much simpler: nothing beats the taste of your own vegetables. “They just taste sweeter!”

Where to have a taste of local farm produce 

Les Amis – Three-Michelin-starred French haute cuisine helmed by Chef Sebastien Lepinoy. 

Jumbo Seafood – Award-winning seafood restaurant that’s beloved by locals for its chilli crab. 

Province – Newly opened eight-seater serving contemporary Southeast Asian cuisine, nestled in the trendy Joo Chiat neighbourhood. Province prides itself on limiting each dish to five ingredients. 

Kausmo – Sustainability-minded 16-seater dining concept that prioritises reducing food waste. 

Experience Singapore’s farms 

City Sprouts – A food and social hub in suburban southern Singapore which organises activities such as farm tours, farm-to-table lunches as well as other activities such as rooftop yoga. 

The Sundowner – A charming rooftop garden on the eastside of Singapore that offers urban farming experiences alongside other fun activities such as cocktail-mixing and pizza-making. 

To learn more about Singapore Airlines’ flight service to Singapore, visit the official website.

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