The best way to explore Brussels’ opulent Art Nouveau past is on a streetcar

Known for its maximalist grandeur, Art Nouveau was all the rage at the turn of the 20th century. The legacy of this glorious movement still rings loud and proud in this Belgian capital, where its nature-inspired ornamentation and whiplash curves permeate its cobblestone streets.

Looking for a way to take in it all in a day? Hop onto the number 92 tram, which weaves north to south of the city and stops by some of the most iconic examples of the style. But to truly luxuriate in the more-is-more decadence of this sensuous movement, grab an Art Nouveau pass and book your visit to some of these seven spectacular stops along the way.

1. Maison Autrique 

266 Chaussée de Haecht (Église Saint-Servais stop)

Start your pilgrimage in multicultural Schaerbeek, where legendary Belgian architect Victor Horta’s first independent project, Maison Autrique, stands. Horta’s name is inseparable from Art Nouveau, and the Horta-designed Hôtel Tassel in Brussels is often considered the first example of an Art Nouveau house. 

A bedroom at Horta’s first project, Maison Autrique. Photo: visit.brussels/Jean Paul-Remy

But here in Schaerbeek, one glimpses a younger Horta through his earlier work. Maison Autrique was built in 1893 after his internship with Alphonse Balat, designer of the Royal Greenhouses of Laeken. Commissioned by a friend who worked as an engineer at chemical company Solvay, the building might not look that bold since it had been designed on a tight budget as a functional family home. Yet the maestro’s use of stained glass and mosaics, and the import that he gave to natural light here all laid the groundwork for his later masterpieces.

What’s nearby: La Maison des Arts is an arts hub with a cute bistro and garden. Also close by are the paraphernalia-packed Schaerbeek Beer Museum, and green lung Parc Josaphat.

A stunning use of stained-glass marks Horta’s first project, Maison Autrique. Photo: visit.brussels/Jean-Paul Remy

2. De Ultieme Hallucinatie

316 Rue Royale (Sainte-Marie stop)

This townhouse was originally built in 1841 in the Neoclassical style, but a stunning conversion by architect Paul Hamesse in 1904 turned De Ultieme Hallucinatie into a temple of Art Nouveau, beginning with the façade’s striking bow window and balcony. Today, it’s a classy brasserie turning out excellent moules-frites (mussels and fries) and croquettes, and diners sit on benches originally designed by Art Nouveau great Henri Van de Velde for the Belgian railways. On select Saturdays, they run guided tours where you follow in the footsteps of a mischievous detective as you delve into the building’s mysteries.

What’s nearby: Botanique is both a fashionable cultural centre known for its hip concert programming, and a botanical garden where 40 types of irises bloom in spring.

The gorgeous green façade of brasserie De Ultieme Hallucinatie. Photo: Wikimedia Commons

3. Musical Instruments Museum (MIM)

2 Rue Montagne de la Cour (Palais stop)

Amongst the city’s most photogenic façades, the eye-popping building housing the Musical Instruments Museum (MIM) outshines its more sombre neighbours in the cultural Mont des Arts district. This structure girded in steel and glass was constructed in 1899 by architect Paul Saintenoy, and formerly housed a fashion boutique. Saintenoy took as his influences the works of better-known Art Nouveau masters like Horta and Paul Hankar, alongside the theories of Eugène Viollet-le-Duc, known for restoring Gothic buildings.

What’s nearby: Grab a cocktail at super-stylish bar La Pharmacie Anglaise, take in the sweeping views from the Mont des Arts or catch a DJ set at cool hangout Kiosk Radio, in the Parc de Bruxelles.

It’s impossible to miss the façade of the MIM, a landmark Art Nouveau building. Photo: visit.brussels

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4. Hôtel Tassel 

6 Rue Paul-Emile Janson (Faider stop)

Horta designed the UNESCO-listed Hôtel Tassel for fellow freemason Émile Tassel, in the same year in which he completed Maison Autrique. It’s considered the first truly iconic Art Nouveau building, overflowing with all the hallmarks of the style: a vivid palette, agile ironwork, stained-glass windows and mosaic flooring. Getting in is still a bit tricky, but Explore.Brussels runs tours of the mansion. They also organise the Brussels Art Nouveau & Art Deco (BANAD) Festival in March, a good time to visit for fans of Art Nouveau and Art Deco. 

What’s nearby: Grab a beer at Brussels Beer Project’s Bailli taproom, or scope out contemporary art at ice-rink-turned-gallery La Patinoire Royale. 

Caption: The mosaic floors and sinuous murals of the landmark Hôtel Tassel. Photo: visit.brussels/Jean-Paul Remy

5. Hôtel Solvay 

224 Avenue Louise (Janson stop)

Buoyed by the success of the Hôtel Tassel, Horta undertook this commission for Armand Solvay, who granted him carte blanche for the project. The architect oversaw every single detail of Hôtel Solvay, from its furniture to the carpets, to its tableware and even the doorbell, delighting in the use of lavish materials like onyx and bronze. This opulent UNESCO World Heritage site is open for both self-exploratory and guided tours, though its façade is currently being renovated. Check its website for time slots – you’ll want to reserve well ahead of time. 

What’s nearby: You’re a 10-minute walk from both Flagey, a cultural centre dedicated to music and images, and popular picnic spot the Ixelles Ponds. 

The decadent interior of Hôtel Solvay. Photo: Gilles van den Abeele

6. Horta Museum

27 Rue Américaine (Janson stop)

Horta Museum is a combination of two adjoining buildings that house the Art Nouveau master’s own private house and studio, and a necessary stop along this tram ride. Built between 1898 to 1901, the interiors are a joy to behold, with each element working in harmony, from the spiral staircase to the wall paintings. It’s possible to arrange to consult Horta’s personal archive and library, and the museum also holds regular exhibitions. Visits must be booked in advance; there’s free entrance on the first Sunday of the month.

What’s nearby: Replenish your sugar levels with a pastel de nata (Portuguese egg tart) at Forcado Pastelaria, or a delightfully decorated cupcake from Lilicup, then kick back with a drink at neighbourhood favourite Supra Bailly. 

A room at Horta’s unmissable house and studio. Photo: visit.brussels/Jean-Paul Remy

7. Maison Hannon

1 Avenue de la Jonction (Ma Campagne or Darwin stop)

This sublime corner house was long closed to the public, but Maison Hannon has recently reopened as a museum. The architect Jules Brunfaut only created one Art Nouveau building – but what a house it is. In its design, Brunfaut fuses the interests of the couple who commissioned it: aesthete Édouard Hannon, and his botany-loving wife Marie. The spectacular indoor greenhouse literally spills over into the façade, while Symbolist frescoes and bas-relief panels add to the otherworldly atmosphere. 

What’s nearby: Check out the health-conscious yet delicious menu at brunch hotspot The Wild Lab, or stop by cocktail haunt The Modern Alchemist for a tipple.

The superb staircase mural of Symbolist paradise Maison Hannon. Photo: visit.brussels/Jean-Paul Remy

The façade of newly reopened museum Maison Hannon. Photo: visit.brussels/Jean-Paul Remy

To learn more about Singapore Airlines’ flights to Brussels, visit the official website.

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Swapping a desk job for a career in the sky

A mid-career switch can be daunting – but it can also be immensely rewarding, as Chief Steward Alvin S Louruduraju can attest. Back in 1996, the then 23-year-old traded his desk job in banking for a career as a cabin crew member with Singapore Airlines (SIA) – and he hasn’t looked back since.

“The pull factors of being able to travel the world, embrace new cultures and taste new cuisines were what made me decide to switch careers,” says Alvin, who has recently been promoted to In-Flight Manager. “Transitioning to a new work environment – one without a permanent desk! – away from home was certainly challenging. However, I’m grateful for the opportunities I’ve been given as a cabin crew member and as a leader.” 

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From the military to Singapore Airlines: A commitment to service

After training as a commando during his national service, Benny Sue dreamt of carving out a career in the military – but an unfortunate physical injury dashed his hopes. “As a member of Singapore’s 1st Commando Battalion, I thrived in an environment where there was a chain-of-command system. However, an ankle injury forced me to reconsider my options,” he shares. 

Today, as a cabin crew member with Singapore Airlines, he brings the knowledge and skills he gained from the army – as well as an unwavering commitment to service – to his current role.

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“You may not always remember the drinks, but you’ll always remember how you felt,” says bar owner and author Holly Graham

You never know what’s going to happen next with Holly Graham – and she wouldn’t have it any other way. The international managing editor of DRiNK Magazine – Asia’s leading bar industry platform –, Graham also launched Asia Women in Booze as a platform for championing women in the regional bar industry prior to Covid-19. In 2022, she wrote Cocktails of Asia, a recipe book on, well, the cocktails of Asia and the stories behind them. Since then, Graham has moved on to her latest project: opening her own bar, Tokyo Confidential, in the Japanese capital.

Graham is a multi-hyphenate with an electric personality who has lived so many different lives in the bar scene alone: journalist, judge, educator, advocate and mixologist. Earlier this year, Bar World 100 ranked her #9 on its list of the global bar industry’s most influential figures. While it’s anyone’s guess what she’ll get up to next, one thing’s for sure and that’s her immense knowledge around the Asian bar circuit. Here, she distills the reasons why she thinks Asia has the best cocktail scene, and shares where the discerning cocktail enthusiast should go when they’re in the region.

“In my opinion, Asia has the best cocktail scene. It just feels more welcoming. When I walk into a bar in Asia, I feel like I can talk to anyone, and that there’s more of a convivial vibe there. Whereas in places like New York and London, it can be a little bit intimidating sometimes – and I say that as a Londoner myself. I think it’s the community that makes the difference.

Asia has the best cocktail scene – it just feels more welcoming

Warm hospitality and rousing good fun are guaranteed at Holly Graham’s latest new venture, Tokyo Confidential. Photo: Millie Tang

Some bars may think that their drinks are the most important thing, but I would argue that hospitality is equally, perhaps more, important. You may not always remember the drinks you’ve had, but you’ll always remember how you felt. If a drink makes you feel a kind of way too, that’s great. But more often than not, it’s the warmth and hospitality will make you feel special rather than the actual beverage.

We’re starting to see more dialled-in, thoughtful concepts in Asia, in general. In terms of the landscape, Hong Kong and Singapore are the obvious market leaders. Singapore in particular is probably what comes to mind when people think of bartending in Asia, because they’ve been a leader where it comes to big, glamourous hotel bars. There’s lately also been a wave of more independent bars like No Sleep Club and Sago House.

More often than not, it’s the warmth and hospitality that will make you feel special rather than the actual beverage

Some countries that I’m excited to watch grow in the next few years include India, whose scene I feel doesn’t get the love and attention that it deserves. Vietnam is another one to watch – the recipes coming out of there have been extremely experimental and interesting, way beyond what other people are doing. Unfortunately, it might be that they don’t have the budget to get the recognition that they deserve, for instance in terms of bringing out guest bartenders or marketing their bars. But the city has a number of things going for it: Vietnam’s one of Asia’s fastest growing economies, the start-up costs are low there and the tourism industry is really big. Everyone’s also really passionate and they’re doing some really cool stuff.

Malaysia and Bangkok have witnessed a boom, and though they’ve since slowed down a little bit, they’re still definitely up there. I think Asia’s 50 Best next year will be really exciting, because this has the first year since everything properly reopened after Covid-19, but you still had places like Hong Kong and Japan that have only been open since October 2022, really. By next year, the world would have been fully reopened for 18 months, and I think then we’ll see how the game has shifted.”

The drink, Good Luck, on the shelf alongside a lucky cat figurine at Tokyo Confidential. Photo: Millie Tang

Cocktail bars in Asia not to be missed

From Ho Chi Minh City to Pune, these are some are some of Holly Graham’s top recommendations for cocktail bars in Asia:

the Pi, Ho Chi Minh City

An experimental-minded bar that champions females in the industry.

Savoury Project, Hong Kong

Opened by the same folks behind the award-winning COA, Savoury Project makes phenomenal drinks that shine a spotlight on savoury ingredients such as beef stock and tomato.

Sidecar, New Delhi

Masters of hospitality, Sidecar is the beacon of India’s booming cocktail scene.

Cobbler & Crew, Pune

A women-owned, sustainability-minded bar with a fabulous team.

Sago House, Singapore

An independent bar with excellent drinks and hospitality, Sago House is currently in the midst of moving to a second location. Keep an eye on their social media for more information. 

To learn more about Singapore Airlines’ flights to the abovementioned places, visit the official website. 

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Samai Distillery

If it’s rum that piques your fancy, Samai Distillery is one of the best spots in Phnom Penh to savour the spirit. Samai’s selection of rums are crafted using traditional rum-making techniques and aged and blended with uniquely Cambodian ingredients. This results in a flavour profile that’s uniquely Cambodian. Key among their offerings is the Samai Kampot Pepper Rum which offers a crisp sweetness with hints of eucalyptus and guava and a sharp spicy bite from the kampot pepper. For a more classic flavour profile, try the multi-award-winning Samai Gold Rum. Be sure to stop by on Thursdays for the lively parties Samai throws within their distillery space.

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Singapore’s surprising evolution as a wellness destination

I take a tiny lift up the floors of a weathered industrial building. An airy, light-filled space greets me when the doors open. Its wide windows reveal a view of banyan trees standing tall and majestic, just by the Kallang river.

When my turn comes, I’m guided to a room with spartan white walls. Before me lies a futuristic-looking, egg-shaped pod. Within it, a pool of water phases from purple to green, red and blue, while ethereal music wafts in the background. The effect is hypnotic.

The futuristic saltwater pods of Palm Avenue Float Club. Photo: Palm Ave Float Club

I hold my breath and slide gently in. The warm water, thanks to the 600kg of Epsom salt dissolved in it, cradles my body. I’m suspended effortlessly as if floating in a womb-like alien cocoon. When I feel ready, I pull down the pod’s lid. The music stops, the light goes off and I’m plunged into an inky darkness.

I focus on clearing my mind. I begin to notice areas of physical tension in my body, such as my neck, stiff from hours spent hunched over a laptop. I breathe in deeply and feel my heart rate slow. With my arms splayed out and eyes closed, I feel untethered, like a lone astronaut lost in the infinite abyss.

Flotation therapy for longer-lasting stress relief 

This is all happening at Singapore’s Palm Ave Float Club, one of the early pioneers of the local wellness trend when it opened back in 2014. Founders Sarah Chan and Derrick Foo first learned about flotation therapy in 2013, while searching for ways to deal with their own stress.

First designed by an American neuroscientist, flotation tanks are thought to ease mental anxiety, muscle tension and even symptoms of depression, by cutting out all external stimulation. 

Float therapy sessions offer a space for self-discovery and to free one’s mind. Photo: Palm Ave Float Club

Chan and Foo found that the therapy gave them a natural state of calm, be more attuned to their surroundings and created a longer-lasting result than other wellness techniques they’d tried. They wanted to give their clients the same experience.

“Think of it like savasana (the relaxation pose in yoga) on steroids,” says Chan. “We want visitors to feel a sense of freedom and inner transformation. After a float, everything seems lighter and brighter.”

Float Club is located in Kampong Bugis, next to the idyllic Kallang Riverside Park. It’s a mere five-minute drive from the busy Kampong Glam heritage district, but feels like a world away from the buzzing city centre.

The soothing interiors invite guests to idle their time away here. Photo: Palm Avenue Float Club

Reflecting on the business’ early years, the club’s founders say that it had been an interesting experience getting to know the early adopters of this activity. They found that there was a small community of like-minded individuals. 

Some of them were what Foo called “truth seekers”, people who sought a more spiritual experience, or perhaps just something that rang true to them. “Bear in mind, back in the day the term wellness wasn’t even officially coined yet,” he adds. Another group were “bio-hackers”, a term he uses to describe people who wanted to improve their health and wellbeing by making changes to their bodies, diet and lifestyle.

Today, this oasis of calm draws in many professionals who come simply to ease the aches and pains of the working day.

Singapore’s growing focus on wellness

Singapore has the unfortunate reputation of consistently ranking among the most stressed-out nations in global surveys. But that narrative has been gradually changing since the pandemic. 

Locals are increasingly prioritising their wellbeing and paying more attention to self-care. A whole range of alternative wellness providers are springing up in the city-state, offering everything from forest bathing to reiki, cacao ceremonies to crystal healing. In 2022, Singapore held its inaugural Wellness Festival, a symbol of the local explosion of interest in the wellness sector. 

From late September to early October 2023, Aesop organised Khronos: a Skin Odyssey, a sensory art installation and series of wellbeing-centric workshops. Photo: Aesop

Other mindfulness and self-care events soon followed. Recently, luxury skincare brand Aesop organised Khronos: a Skin Odyssey – a sensory art installation and series of workshops that included sound baths and mat pilates with a focus on breathwork, which celebrated the link between skin and wellbeing. The Conscious Festival at South Beach promoted health, wellness and sustainability with talks, panels and more workshops.

Diana Ng, a somatic therapist and embodiment guide who has been working in the wellness space in the past 20 years, observes a growing consciousness towards the importance of wellness, as well as a demand for more intentionally curated experiences. 

“Our culture has tended to value mind over matter and pushing through. The lockdown gave people a chance to reconnect to their own needs and realise what might be misaligned in their life,” she said.

She notes that a sense of community has sprung up at emerging wellness clusters at Pearl’s Hill Terrace in Chinatown and the recently-defunct Altered States, also founded by Chan and Foo at the same Kampong Bugis location.

An increasing number of practitioners are offering experiences such as sound baths. Photo: Shutterstock

Yoga aside, an increasing number of practitioners are exploring other modalities such as breathwork, sound baths, movement and forest therapy.

“When people come for my sessions to relieve stress, they realise that fellow participants may also be going through something challenging. Through the guided movements, they learn to quiet their mind and reconnect with their body, alongside other people, without finding it taboo. That’s what makes such spaces so valuable.”

Restaurants serving ‘dirty clean’ healthy but tasty food

But wellness isn’t just about learning, listening or switching off. It’s about fun, too. 

There’s been a growing interest in healthy eating on this island over the past few years. Healthy, accessible and tasty mini-chains, such as The Daily Cut and Bamboo Bowls offer an alternative to Singapore’s traditional, low-cost street food and its thriving fine-dining scene.

COOP COOP offers a new ‘Cheeky chicken’ concept, serving mouth-watering roasted chicken with beautiful Mediterranean inspired sides. Photo: COOP COOP

The Kallang Rivergreen building, home to the Palm Ave Float Club, also houses a new vegetable-forward rotisserie restaurant COOP COOP on its ground floor patio. Promising fun and casual vibes, this pet-friendly space is designed to encourage group get-togethers. The star dish, rotisserie chicken drizzled with garlic sauce and crisp chilli oil, invites everyone to dig in and get their hands dirty. The menu leans towards Middle Eastern flavours with a hint of Asian. Expect veggie dips, salads, sharing mezze plates and grilled items. 

“A meal that’s indulgent and where you get your hands dirty but ultimately, you are eating well”

Javier Perez of Yonder Hospitality, the group behind COOP COOP, enthuses that this mix of hearty fare and fresh vegetables helps keep everything balanced. “We like to call it ‘Dirty Clean’, a meal that’s indulgent and where you get your hands dirty but ultimately, you are eating well,” he says.

Learning to linger and just do nothing 

When I end my float session, I emerge from the darkness and find myself back in the lounge area, where the staff invite me to stay for as long as I like. 

I wander the space, examining the therapy tool-kits and self-help books, before I finally make myself at home amongst the throw cushions. I savour a cup of hot ginger tea and a Thai coconut and chocolate ice cream. Time unspools lazily as I watch the world outside go by. In the distance, a fleet of kayakers paddle in the waters around the Singapore Sports Hub. 

“Many of us have forgotten how to do nothing”

Chan and Foo have made space for idleness as an antidote for modern life. As Foo puts it, “We’ve learnt that people just want to chill and keep it real. You’d think it’s funny that people would need to learn how to be idle. But modern societies are filled with distractions, and many of us have forgotten how to do nothing.”

Flipping through the Float Club’s visitors book, I find previous floaters have left all sorts of doodles, sketches and reflections in colourful markers. Some are trippy and quirky; others are pensive, heartfelt and raw. “I became part of a large dark pond, my hands were like gentle rockets pulsing and then I had a really great nap,” wrote one guest. 

In a world so over-stimulated and frantically paced, it’s heartening to know that spaces like this exist – a safe retreat that allows time for wonder and reflection in the middle of ordinary moments. 

Where to find similar wellness experiences in Singapore 

At Yunomori Onsen & Spa, soak your worries away in the mineral-rich, warm waters at this space that marries traditional Japanese Onsen therapies and Thai spa treatments.

Trapeze Rec. Club is a wellness club that comprises a boutique gym, a variety of health, fitness and wellness treatments and a café in the heart of Singapore’s central business district.

Indulge in a one-of-a-kind halotherapy (salt therapy) experience at Pablo Blau, Singapore’s first luxury salt spa.

Pablo Blau’s salt waiting room. Photo: Pablo Blau

From saunas, ice baths, float tanks and acupressure massage to counselling, all this and more is available at Soma House, a studio in Singapore’s beloved Eastside neighbourhood Joo Chiat.

Nestled within Bukit Timah’s lush greenery, Herd Singapore harnesses the gentle healing power of horses through Equine-Assisted Intervention therapy sessions.

Space 2B is a collective of mindfulness mentors who lead over 30 sound-healing, meditation and somatic experiences each week, using meditation and sound’s therapeutic qualities. 

Gentle Walks conducts local forest walks for people to experience a slower way of life and soak in the goodness of the forest.

Glow’s wellness-centric menu prioritises fresh organic ingredients. Photo: Glow

Glow by Supernature is an all-organic and natural retail and dining space on Dempsey, with a tempting range of freshly prepared salads, energising juices and warming soups.

Since opening in 2011, The Living Café in Bukit Timah has been at the forefront of raw and plant-based cuisine in Singapore.

To learn more about Singapore Airlines’ flights to Singapore, visit the official website. 

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A peaceful sanctuary for people and wildlife on Seattle’s Whidbey Island

A chorus of birdsong and frog croaks echoes around me as I follow the wooded path through Earth Sanctuary, a privately owned sculpture park on Whidbey Island, 20 minutes by ferry from Seattle, Washington State. In the distance, a family of wood ducks glide across a pond and a great blue heron peeks out of the marshes. I deposit my $7 fee in the honesty box at the car park (you can also pay in advance online) and head past the trailhead, where a bell sways from an old fir tree. Nearby, a prayer wheel turns in the gentle breeze.

Earth Sanctuary founder Chuck Pettis is waiting to guide me through his 29-hectare reserve. An author and environmental artist, Pettis designed this private park with wildlife preservation in mind. Since founding the Sanctuary in 2000, his vision has been to create a place where spirituality and nature converge.

“Earth Sanctuary is a refuge from the constant chaotic onslaught of a world in transition,” says Pettis. “It’s a protected ecosystem for birds, insects, trees, plants and fungi, and it purifies the Useless Bay water table. Earth Sanctuary is preserving, protecting and sustaining what we most love about Whidbey Island.”

A family of hooded Merganser chicks. Photo: Michael Stadler

Landscape art inspired by ancient monuments

A practising Buddhist, Pettis is a spiritual man, with a particular interest in ley lines, the networks of energy that some believe weave around the planet. He believes that Whidbey Island possesses the largest collection of ley lines and spiritual nexuses in the world. This inspired him to create spaces and art pieces on his land that “honour these energies”. He takes inspiration from ancient monuments such as Neolithic dolmen, stone tombs and stone circles, structures from various faiths such as the Buddhist stupa and Native American medicine wheel, as well as physics and mathematics.

Earth Sanctuary founder Chuck Pettis. Photo: Earth Sanctuary

Cairn sculptures at Fen Viewpoint at Earth Sanctuary. Photo: Michael Stadler

Following delicately stacked stone cairns, we reach Ley Line Sculpture, an arrangement of charred driftwood that marks what Pettis believes to be powerful earth energies that inspire spiritual experiences. In the distance, a bald eagle perches on a red alder. All around me, the lush woodland’s native flowers exude a gentle fragrance.

Even if you don’t share Pettis’s beliefs, the atmosphere he has created at the Sanctuary is a healing balm that encourages you to connect with nature, slow down and forget about life’s stresses.

“My hope is that when people come to Earth Sanctuary, they feel relaxed, more mindful. I want their worries to fall away,” he shares.

Honouring Indigenous culture

We amble across the 3km dirt trail that loops around Earth Sanctuary and pass a medicine wheel created from a consecrated baby grey whale skull by shaman Klaw-osht of the Nuu-chah-nulth tribe of Vancouver Island. I follow Pettis up to the wheel and remove my shoes as a show of respect. I appreciate that Pettis asked an Indigenous artist to create this, honouring the cultural heritage of the Snohomish, the tribe on whose land I now tread.

A boy explores the Cottonwood stone circle. Photo: Michael Stadler

A sanctuary that protects wildlife

Pettis is working to restore the land environmentally as well as spiritually. He has planted 70 native species of trees and well over 100 other plants and shrubs in Earth Sanctuary to date. His goal is to combine the best in ecological management with art and spirituality to create a sanctuary for wildlife as well as people.

“My hope is that when people come to Earth Sanctuary, they feel relaxed, more mindful. I want their worries to fall away”

“I’ve done a lot of work with non-profit environmental groups and I know bad things are going on with the environment everywhere that I have no control over. I decided to focus on Earth Sanctuary’s 29 hectares and design with nature rather than against it,” Pettis says. “I hope to restore an old-growth forest, making space for art and spirituality, to create a magical and peaceful place that uplifts its visitors.”

Investigating the prayer wheels at the Buddhist stupa monument. Photo: Michael Stadler

Pettis and I climb the trail to the Buddhist stupa monument with its long line of prayer wheels spinning in the breeze. We make our way back out to the parking lot through a winding trail, where Douglas firs reach to the sky and bigleaf maple trees create a canopy over ferns, mosses and mushrooms.

I end my walk back where I started, at the car park. Although I’ve gone full circle, I’m somehow not the same.

Visiting Whidbey Island

Whidbey Island is an hour’s drive over the iconic Deception Pass, or a 20-minute ferry ride from Seattle. The Whidbey SeaTac shuttle takes you directly to the island from Seattle–Tacoma International Airport.

The picturesque Deception Pass, between Seattle and Whidbey Island. Photo: Jayson Moorman

Where to stay on Whidbey Island

Comforts of Whidbey is a six-room bed and breakfast in a winery. Overlooking Puget Sound, it’s just 13km from Earth Sanctuary’s peaceful environs. The ample breakfast fuels you for island adventures.

Captain Whidbey Inn, 30-minutes by car from Earth Sanctuary, features Scandinavian décor in its Lagoon Rooms, rustic but cosy rooms in its Historic Lodge and whale-spotting views from its Penn Cove Cabins, all nestled along the shoreline amid old-growth firs.

Whidwood On Whidbey Island has a charming sun-filled apartment and cosy cabin, 40-minutes’ drive north of Earth Sanctuary. Both are filled with books which you can borrow and read in a pleasant corner of Whidwood’s beautiful gardens.

Where to eat on Whidbey Island

Orchard Kitchen, a few minutes’ drive from Earth Sanctuary, sits in the middle of a farm. This supplies most of the ingredients for Chef Vincent Nattress’s creative fine-dining tasting menus, which change every night and are never repeated.

Seabiscuit Bakery, a short drive from Earth Sanctuary, lies hidden in the woods. But once you find it, you’ll want to stay a while sampling their decadent pastries, cookies and quiches. Grab a freshly made sandwich for the ferry ride back to Seattle.

Saltwater Fishhouse and Oyster Bar, in downtown Langley, is where you’ll find the famous local Penn Cove mussels steamed in Seattle’s Rainier beer. Don’t leav­­e without trying their local clams and oysters too.

To learn more about Singapore Airlines’ flights to Seattle, visit the official website. 

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Brussels’ charms lie beyond its chocolate and waffles

When planning a European holiday, capitals such as Paris, London and Barcelona may readily come to mind. But unbeknownst to many, Brussels features superb shopping and a rapidly evolving F&B scene, on top of its already world-famous architecture and famed exports. Look beyond the EU seat’s chocolate and waffles to find out what else the city offers, whether it’s natural wine bars or Michelin-starred plant-based dining.

Most of your time will be spent exploring the city centre, which is divided into the stately Upper Town – home to museums and government buildings – and the thriving Lower Town, home to the city’s commercial quarter and medieval square Grand-Place. But you’ll also want to venture further afield to the happening communes (neighbourhoods) of Ixelles and Saint-Gilles. The best bit is that owing to its compact size, exploring such riches on foot is a breeze.

Singapore Airlines will fly to Brussels four times a week, starting 5 April 2024. Take a peek at what you can expect from the city, and where to plan your stay.

Where to stay in Brussels

Juliana Hotel

Between its setting on a Neoclassical city-centre square and its majestic white façade, newcomer Juliana Hotel – part of the Small Luxury Hotels group – certainly makes a big first impression. The interiors quickly confirm its ambitions in the style stakes too: here a Philippe Starck mirror, there an Hermès-inspired corridor and everywhere a dramatic colour palette. The peacocking doesn’t stop in the spa (replete with hammam) either, as guests can do laps while admiring the Le Corbusier-esque murals bedecking its walls.

Photo: Juliana Hotel

The Hoxton, Brussels

Occupying an impressive Brutalist building – IBM’s former headquarters – in the city’s botanical garden, the fashionable London-born chain’s first Belgian outpost has been shaking up the local scene since its June 2023 opening. The Hoxton’s interiors do that ’70s thing (think velvet sofas, and circular baths in some rooms) while the food slants Latin American. Downstairs is a Peruvian joint offering punchy plates and a raw bar, while the stunning rooftop restaurant is the place for Mexican tacos and mezcal-based cocktails.

Photo: The Hoxton, Brussels

Hotel Amigo

Part of the Rocco Forte empire, the city’s reigning grande dame sits on the former site of a prison – but these days everyone from politicians to stars is lining up to check in. Hotel Amigo’s ultra-plush rooms and suites tap Belgium’s heritage, from Magritte-inspired objets d’art to a suite fêting homegrown fashion icon Diane von Furstenberg. Add in a fine Italian restaurant and a location yards from the Grand-Place, and it’s easy to see the appeal.

Photo: Hotel Amigo

Where to eat in Brussels

Barge

Near the Brussels Canal, chef Grégoire Gillard (ex-of local icon Comme chez Soi, among others) is behind Barge, a trendy one-Michelin-star restaurant with exposed-brick walls and an impressive commitment to sustainability. Produce from Brussels and the region feeds into tasting menus (and a more affordable Friday lunch) which are notable for their intense flavour combinations. Stars include trout with verbena tzatziki, cucumber scales, gooseberry, ice plant and borage, or their celebrated fusion of artichokes and truffle.

Barge. Photo: Equinox Light Photo

Humus x Hortense

The upmarket Ixelles quarter makes a fittingly elegant backdrop to this game-changing establishment: the first 100% plant-based restaurant in Belgium to get a Michelin star. To describe Humus x Hortense as vegan would be to undersell visionary founders Nicolas Decloedt and Caroline Baerten’s self-dubbed “botanical gastronomy”, where foraging-happy tasting menus are abetted by zero-waste cocktails. Given that Belgium skews heavily carnivore, its focus on meat-free cooking and sustainability is all the more revelatory.

Humus x Hortense. Photo: Equinox Light Photo

Frites Atelier

Visiting one of Brussels’ fries kiosks (fritkots) is a joy, but for a classier spin on the genre, try Frites Atelier, by chef Sergio Herman (formerly of three-Michelin-star Oud Sluis fame) in foodie hub Sainte-Catherine. As few know, the Belgians invented fries – sorry, France – and here Herman reinvents them, adding gourmet toppings like Flemish beef stew or Indo peanut to the mix. While the fries are the obvious go-to when here, they also serve burgers and other snacks.

Frites Atelier Brussels

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Brussels

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Where to drink in Brussels

Classic Flemish bruin café, or “brown bars” such as Au Daringman typify the bar experience in Brussels. Named for their tobacco-stained walls, these bohemian hang-outs exude a certain Old World charm. But if you’re looking for something that hits a little different, the following are some solid options:

Arthur Orlans

A former fashion house on the stylish Rue Antoine Dansaert, Arthur Orlans has morphed into one of the city’s most glamorous speakeasies. Ring the bell for entry and be wowed by the eclectic interiors – not least the Tartan carpet. The limited cocktail list (often gin-based) is superbly creative, with libations like “Mexico to Marseille” seamlessly blending mezcal and Noilly Prat vermouth (you can also order off-menu without a problem if nothing tempts). Bonus points for the music: on-point and not too loud for a chat.

Photo: Arthur Orlans

Brussels Beer Project

Sidestep the tourists packing out the famous Delirium Café in favour of this upstart, whose dynamic Dansaert outpost is the pick of their growing local empire. The Brussels Beer Project taproom offers 24 beers – a mix of their greatest hits, specials (they’re known for collaborations with equally hip international brewers) and Lambic beers. If you’re intrigued, you can do a flash tour of the cellar to learn about Lambic brewing and Gueuze blending. There’s also a shop stocking their beautifully packaged wares.

Photo: Brussels Beer Project

Calmos

Currently the city’s most intriguing neighbourhood for nightlife, Saint-Gilles has an embarrassment of superb bars – including natural wine specialists like this corner joint. The photographer and graphic designer who launched it have gone for appealing French bistro stylings: grab a seat at one of the red tables and peruse the blackboard, advertising a dozen wines by the glass and tried-and-true snacks like charcuterie and cheese. For a bar crawl, fold nearby wine bar Rubis and beer icon Moeder Lambic Original into your plans.

Photo: Calmos

Where to shop in Brussels

Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert

Ideally situated between Central Station and the Grand-Place, Europe’s first shopping mall Les Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert is actually three separate glazed arcades: the King’s Gallery, Queen’s Gallery and Princes’ Gallery. Completed in 1847, the ultra-genteel spot has shopping to match – be it Belgium’s top leather house, Delvaux; chocolatier Neuhaus, inventor of the praline no less; or trendy shoe brand Camper. The superbly stocked bookstore Tropismes is another must-visit, and there’s also an arthouse cinema if you want to linger.

Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert. Photo: visit.brussels / Jean-Paul Remy

Stijl

In the fashion-forward Rue Dansaert – and partly responsible for its rise – this pioneering boutique was one of the early purveyors of Belgian cool. Today Stijl’s razor-sharp edit of womenswear continues to favour the so-called Antwerp Six: a group of avant-garde designers who stormed the fashion world in the 1980s, including the famed Dries van Noten. You’ll also find clothes by newer waves of Belgian grads and likeminded experimentalists such as Rick Owens.

Photo: Stijl

For our full list on things to do and places to see in Brussels, check out our Brussels City Guide. To learn more about Singapore Airlines’ flights to Brussels, visit the official website.

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Neighbourhood spotlight: Uluwatu, Bali

Unparalleled surf first put Uluwatu on the map back in the 1970s, but there’s much more to be discovered at this cliffside community in Bali than just spectacular waves. The neighbourhood has been developing at a rapid clip since the pandemic, and every couple of months, a new crop of concept stores, yoga studios, restaurants and bars open their doors along its dramatic limestone cliffs. 

In light of this influx of energy it’s perhaps funny to reflect on Uluwatu’s name, an Indonesian portmanteau combining ulu (land’s end) and watu (rock) that was originally used to refer to its 11th-century temple. For here on the southwestern tip of Bali, a burgeoning neighbourhood makes the edge of the world feel like its centre.

Where to stay in Uluwatu

Uluwatu Surf Villas

Surfers like Kelly Slater, Gerry Lopez and Mason Ho are among the many pros who call Uluwatu Surf Villas their base when visiting Bali, since they can easily bring their boards down the private staircase to the famous surf breaks below.

Sleep in a cliffside villa overlooking the ocean at Uluwatu Surf Villas. Photo: Uluwatu Surf Villas

Opened back in 2001, Uluwatu Surf Villas can be said to be instrumental in helping to redefine the neighbourhood’s once-rustic reputation. Its 25 villas are crafted from reclaimed Javanese teak and ironwood. They vary from Balinese-style thatched-roof bungalows outfitted in locally sourced antiques, to more contemporary designs with infinity saltwater pools overlooking the ocean. Borrow one of the surfboards designed specifically for Uluwatu’s waves and spend your days out on the water – or join visiting world champion Brad Gerlach on a multi-day surf retreat learning tricks from the former pro.

The Asa Maia

A quick stroll from Thomas Beach, a quieter surf spot that locals favour, The Asa Maia is a design and wellness sanctuary that defines barefoot luxury. Ten century-old timber gladaks (traditional Eastern Javanese homes) were handpicked in Java by owner Martha Booke and reassembled at the resort. There, local artisans constructed bamboo roofs by hand and sculpted Belgian bluestone into sinks and baths. Wellness experiences range the gamut from breathwork and ancient naturopathic medicine to facials with Balinese beauty brand Sensatia Botanicals. 

The Asa Maia’s timber gladaks were sourced in Java. Photo: The Asa Maia

Where to eat in Uluwatu

While some may gravitate toward Yeyes Warung for traditional rice-based nasi campur or Warung Local for modern Indonesian eats, here are some of the newer, internationally influenced spots that are currently the talk of the town.

Mason

The sister of the Canggu woodfire-focused eatery of the same name, Mason marries touches of the Mediterranean with a minimalist-chic aesthetic – think Scandinavian-style wooden tables and stools, terracotta brick and touches of steel. Sit by the bar to watch the team in the open kitchen, where they whip up flatbreads with burnt chili hummus and smoked tuna dip with olive oil and lemon zest, on custom grills and a wood-fired oven.

Mason’s spread of starters includes pickled vegetables and cured meat. Photo: Mason

Drifter Café

This combination surf shop and café is a popular place to post up with a laptop on the open-air patio while you sip an artisanal coffee. Take your pick of Drifter Café’s iced chai masala, energising cacao or traditional Indonesian jamu juice with tamarind and turmeric. You can also indulge in an all-day breakfast with a mix of healthy and hearty plates like açai bowls and avocado benedict. Vegans can look to their vegan burrito supreme with scrambled tofu as well as other plant-based options. Don’t leave without eyeing the desserts on display inside — it’s never a bad call to snag a sea salt chocolate bar or goji berry slice to-go.

Stock up on surf supplies after breakfast at Drifter. Photo: Drifter

Ulu Artisan

This buzzy eatery spills out onto a sidewalk terrace, giving it an open-air, laid-back feel. A go-to in Uluwatu for bagels and baked goods like red velvet croissants, Ulu Artisan is also a popular lunch pick thanks to a menu of customisable bowls of rotisserie chicken or barbecue-glazed tofu. It also has a standout sandwich selection that includes charcoal-roasted aubergine with grilled mushrooms, burrata and prosciutto and pan-fried local sardines with capers and red onion gremolata. Enjoy them served on sesame ciabatta or focaccia bread, baked in-house daily.

Green eggs with tahini and sourdough toast is one of Ulu Artisan’s breakfast highlights. Photo: Ulu Artisan

Where to drink in Uluwatu

Ulu Cliffhouse

Palm trees and warm lights strung over the pool give this seaside spot a romantic vibe, especially come sunset, when you’ll take in prime views of the Indian Ocean from the deck. Situated on one of Uluwatu’s characteristic cliffs, Ulu Cliffhouse’s mid-century touches are a nod to Palm Beach while its cocktail menu is very much Balinese in style. The Cliff Colada is a riff on the classic, mixed with local coconut water and topped with flamed coconut meringue, while the Roasted Pineapple Margarita is a gastronomic version of the Mexican favourite, composed of oven-roasted pineapple blended with tequila and topped with pineapple foam. International DJs are a regular sight at the pool deck, their takeovers transforming the space into an open-air club that reminds of Ibiza.

Uluwatu Cliffhouse is known for its stunning sea views and DJ sessions. Photo: Ulu Cliffhouse

La Terrazza 

Peering over the ocean, this cliffside Italian-inspired restaurant is a popular hangout at sunset. The Tuscany-born duo behind La Terrazza’s concept bring authentic elements of their homeland in the form of homemade gnocchi and some of the best pizza you’ll find on the island. There are also plenty of street food-style appetisers like arancini and bruschetta that make for the perfect aperitivo.

Head to La Terrazza for a sunset aperitivo. Photo: La Terrazza

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What to do in Uluwatu

The namesake Hindu Uluwatu Temple – locally known as Pura Luhur Uluwatu – carved into the cliffs 70 metres above the sea is one of Bali’s must-visit temples. While the view of the sunset and traditional kecak and fire dance performance are iconic of the region, here are two other quintessential activities to try your hand at while here. 

Surfing at Uluwatu Beach

The barrels and breaks in Uluwatu are truly not to be missed. If you’re a beginner, you’ll want to start small at Thomas Beach, where you’ll have plenty of room on the water (and foam boards available for rent) to learn on decently sized swells.

Along Uluwatu Beach, more advanced surfers and pros ride waves from sunrise to sunset at surf breaks like Temples, Racetracks and The Bombie, home to some of Indonesia’s largest waves. If you’d rather watch the show from above, take a seat in a Java teak daybed poolside at restaurant Mana. Otherwise, head to cliffside beach bar Single Fin for sunset Bintang beers overlooking one of the most famous surf breaks.

Stunning surf breaks line Uluwatu’s coast. Photo: Uluwatu Surf Villas

Morning Light Yoga Studio

In Uluwatu, it seems that new yoga and Pilates studios are a dime a dozen now that wellness retreats have become one of the island’s major draws. But Morning Light Yoga Studio is one of the OGs, and continues to hold its own amid the booming scene. This open-air yoga shala is propped between the jungle and waves, ensconcing one in the sights and sounds of nature. Its 75-minute morning classes in the reclaimed teak temple change each day and range between dynamic flows and softer sequences. Its restorative practice are perfect for stretching and unwinding between surf sessions. 

Savasana while ensconced in nature at Morning Light Yoga Studio. Photo: Morning Light Yoga Studio

If you’re looking to sample some of the newcomers, book a high-energy Pilates class at Flow & Form or slow flow yoga in one of the two bamboo shalas at The Space in Bingin.

Where to shop in Uluwatu

The Find

The cotton candy-pink façade framed by cacti makes the concept shop feel like it was plucked out of Mexico, but the curated collection of housewares, clothing, jewellery and accessories at The Find champions some of Bali’s most talented artisans and makers. The result is a bohemian-chic aesthetic with a selection of flowy linen dresses, signet rings inspired by traditional Indonesian carving and ceramics reminiscent of Namibia’s sand dunes.

The Find is a treasure trove of accessories, clothing and home decor. Photo: The Find

Fields of Yarrow

Fields of Yarrow is a Bali-based skincare brand whose small-batch products are crafted from organically sourced local plants. Tucked between a swimwear shop and a Pilates studio not far from Padang Padang beach, it’s one of the first in Bali to offer all-natural facials. South of France-raised founder Souhela Ferrah designed the botanical-based, seed-to-skin line around natural ingredients like moringa oil and jicama extract, in collaboration with some of the country’s best batch masters and scientists. Here, you can book a customisable Wild Rose classic facial or acupressure glow face massage that takes place in the tranquil treatment room in the back of the boutique.

Sample Balinese botanicals with a facial at Fields of Yarrow. Photo: Fields of Yarrow

To learn more about Singapore Airlines’ flights to Bali, visit the official website.

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