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For an exhilarating showcase of Singaporean design brands, it doesn’t get better than Design Orchard. A fashion incubator, event space and retail store rolled into one, this distinctive concrete façade in the city’s famous shopping belt has developed and houses over 100 local brands. Shop for contemporary and heritage-inspired womenswear, naturally made skincare and candles, modern jewellery and homeware that will enhance your life and remind you of Singapore. Design Orchard’s second floor is home to co-working and incubator spaces for local creatives, while the rooftop space hosts events and even offers a pocket park and café where visitors can unwind.
For a memorable stay in the heart of London, with easy access to the hip restaurants and shopping of Shoreditch and Spitalsfields Market, look no further than the Pan Pacific London. The 237-room and 43-suite property brings a unique combination of Singaporean and British hospitality to the City. Expect minimalist elegance such as orchids and inspiring artworks throughout the common spaces and mod-cons in your room including smart TVs with Chromecasts, Dyson hairdryers and complimentary WiFi. Southeast Asian flavours abound at Ginger Lily cocktail bar in Straits Kitchen and at The Orchid Lounge – home to Kopi Tiam Afternoon Tea as well as the patisserie SHIOK! Sweat it all out later with 24-hour access to the gym with high-performance training areas and a technologically advanced Dwall, steam rooms and 18.5m pool in SENSORY, a floor dedicated to holistic health.
This article is part of Singapore Airlines’ “Beyond the Cabin” video series, in which cabin crew explore their favourite cities and share how their hobbies enrich their service delivery.
New York City is every movie buff’s dream. After all, there are thousands of films set in the city – from the iconicKing Kong, in which the titular gorilla scales the Empire State Building, toBirdman, which tells the story of a has-been actor attempting to produce a Broadway play.
This cultural cachet is precisely what Fadzil Hassan, an In-Flight Manager with Singapore Airlines – and an ardent cinephile – adores about the Big Apple. “I’m a big movie fan and I’ve always wanted to visit New York City ever since I was young, as there are numerous films and TV series set here,” says Fadzil, who has been flying with the Airline for 34 years.
In a world where whisky and wine and coffee get discussed with fervent admiration, tea is often dismissed. It’s seen as the drink to wash down a meal with, or a last resort when you’ve hit your caffeine quota for the day, or something to be consumed only with black pearls at 50% sugar level.
But as life gets more hectic and we seek healthier ways to slow down, tea becomes a more enticing option. Interestingly, the Covid-19 pandemic has also played a key role in tea’s rising popularity in Singapore.
Gyokuro tea with its leaves being served as an edible delicacy at recently opened cocktail bar Mixology Salon. Photo: Mixology Salon Singapore
“We actually had a lot of orders during Covid,” says Li Hongyuan, the co-founder of local tea brandPekoe & Imp. “Some customers were sending them as care packages, but also people were stuck at home, so for the first time, they had the time to enjoy brewing tea.”
Over the past few years, increasingly novel ways to experience the humble cuppa have started cropping up, too. If you’re looking to embark on your own journey of discovery into this beautiful beverage, here are a few suggestions on where to get started.
For the purists: accessible high-grade Chinese tea
It’s easy to forget that almost every tea out there comes from the same plant – the tea tree, Camellia sinensis. Yet the varieties available can be overwhelming, and it’s tricky to know what’s good. Luckily,SILK Tea Barmakes the experience both approachable and enjoyable. Founded by Xian Tan and Melody Teo, this cosy tea room in bustling Chinatown features a simple selection of ever-changing premium, single-origin Chinese teas – many of which are sourced from Pekoe & Imp.
Xian Tan taking a customer through the brewing process at SILK Tea Bar. Photo: Alyssa Tjoe
“Good tea helps you steal time”
“Good tea helps you steal time, and it should leave you feeling comfortable,” says Tan. To him, a well-brewed cuppa invites sippers to slow down and stay present. Watching natural light stream in through the arched windows, it’s clear that this philosophy has permeated every detail in this earthy, minimalist space.
If you’re in the mood for geeking out, the tea tasting flight and self-brew programme make for great ways to while away an afternoon.
SILK Tea Bar. Photo: Alyssa Tjoe
For the adventurous: house-brewed kombucha
Given its reputation of boasting many potential health benefits, kombucha has been gaining popularity for quite some time. But if the commercial brands are too sour for your taste, you might want to try the options atApartment Coffee, a short bus ride from heritage neighbourhood Little India. Their kombucha brews are lovingly made in small batches by Ashley Chan, the café’s head of coffee and research, and are refreshing and nuanced.
Apartment Coffee's larger, light-filled new location at Selegie Road. Photo: Ashley ChanEven though it's called Apartment Coffee, the café has a rotating menu of kombucha that explores the various flavour profiles of tea. Photo: Apartment Coffee
“Commercially-made kombucha tends to be more acidic, as they’re more fermented to help them keep for longer,” he shares. His creations, on the other hand, are carefully calibrated and made with top-of-the-line tea leaves. “I usually use oolongs and red teas, and I love seeing how the fermentation process brings out different flavours.”
Apartment’s kombucha menu is updated every month, so there’s always something new to look forward to. The most recent tea used, for instance, is the Fujian Golden Peony Hongcha, a black tea laced with floral and plum-like sweetness.
For the pleasure-seekers: cocktails with a twist
While tea is often unfairly dismissed as an old-fashioned drink, players like the recently openedMixology Salonattranquil Robertson Quayare giving it a decidedly quirkier reputation. Founded in Tokyo, Japan, this craft cocktail bar renowned for its menu of “tea-tails” is the brainchild of master mixologist Shuzo Nagumo. The Singapore outpost is helmed by his protégé, Kaoru Takii, who serves up some delightful tipples over an intimate counter. The Hoji Tea-tail No. 2, for instance, is a gorgeous blend of hojicha, vintage port wine, aged cognac and cassis liqueur. Meanwhile, the Gyokuro Martini is underscored by the umami notes of the highest class of Japanese green tea.
Japanese tea espresso martini. Photo: Mixology Salon SingaporeMixologists Kaoru Takii and Shuzo Nagumo. Photo: Mixology Salon Singapore
“When creating each tea-tail, we choose a specific tea variety that serves as the foundation for the cocktail. We check the aroma profile and build the tea tail recipe, and adopt a gradual and precise method to preserve the true essence of the tea,” explains Takii. “By incorporating tea into cocktails, we infuse the beverage with unique tea flavours and aromas and pay homage to the rich cultural traditions associated with tea.”
For the foodies: tea-infused delicacies
Thanks to its versatile nature, tea is commonly infused into all sorts of dishes, from thunder tea rice in Hakka cuisine to matcha ice cream to tea-flavoured mooncakes. This is something thatPekoe & Imphas been experimenting with for years, and one of its most successful collaborations is with local artisanal brandFossa Chocolate.
“We started partnering with Fossa for tea and chocolate pairing workshops, and over time we decided to just combine it into one thing,” shares Li from Pekoe & Imp. “We’re all geeks, so the taste tests are a lot of fun.”
Beautifully packaged and stocked in a number of local cafés, these Pekoe & Imp tea-infused Fossa chocolates make a great souvenir. Check their list of stockists here. Photo: Pekoe & Imp
Some of their most interesting flavours include Duck Shit Dancong Dark Milk Chocolate – so named because the tea leaves come from a mountain in China that literally translates as “duck shit” – and the intensely floral Himalayan Royale Tips Hongcha.
Endless possibili-teas
Speaking with all these experts reveals that there are myriad reasons to love tea. From its delicious taste to how it brings people together, to its nourishing qualities, tea clearly plays an important role in modern life.
And while the way we enjoy the drink will no doubt continue to evolve, it’s exciting to know that we already have so many ways to encounter a great brew around Singapore.
To learn more about Singapore Airlines’ flights to Singapore, visit the official website.
Produced by SilverKris for Caversham Wildlife Park
No trip to Australia is complete without a deep dive into its unique wildlife. Just 30 minutes outside downtown Perth, the family-owned Caversham Wildlife Park is home to the largest collection of native Australian animals in Western Australia – some 2,000 birds, reptiles, mammals and marsupials across 200 species. Daily events include koala photo sessions, a chance to meet wombats, kangaroo and penguin feeding sessions and a farm show, where you can volunteer to bottle-feed a lamb, milk a cow or just sit back and watch sheep shearing and other farm activities. Best part: the team at Caversham is dedicated to animal welfare, and its various national accreditations ensure that the park is a happy place for humans and animals alike.
South Korea’s capital runs on caffeine, with cafés front and centre on almost every city block, and the ubiquitous Starbucks brand alone boasting a presence of 1,750 branches in the country. Other coffee shops such as elegantAntique, one of the trendiest joints in Seoul’s hip Yeonnam-dong neighbourhood, make a name for themselves by capitalising on an Instagrammable retro aesthetic. But if you’re seeking authentic old-world charm, here are five establishments that date as far back as the 1940s where you might find it.
Gamoo (1972)
A slice of the old Myeong-dong
Nostalgia lingers in the air at Gamoo, an unlikely find amid the maze of cosmetics stores and boutiques that line the alleys of touristy Myeong-dong. The place used to teem with celebrities and CEOs, recalls proprietor Choi Gyong-yong, who started work there as a server 40 years ago.
Gamoo's old-timey interior feels like the set of a classic filmViennese coffee sprinkled with cinnamon powder at Gamoo
While the fixtures have been modernised, the opulent chandelier from Gamoo’s heyday still hangs proudly. Its signature drink remains Viennese coffee served in China cups. Another staple issanghwatang(a traditional herbal tea) with raw egg.
Be sure to check out the fourth-story view of the Chinese Embassy garden.
Getting there:Head out of Exit 6 of Myeong-dong Station and take the next alley over on your left.
Eulji Dabang (1985)
Return to 1980s Korea
Korea’s first cafés were originallydabang— literally, “tea houses” that happen to serve more than tea. They sprung up in Seoul before WWII, originally catered to elites and served up instant coffee. According to Korean-American writer Cecilia Hae-jin Lee,dabanghit their stride during the 1960-1980 period, when they began drawing people from all walks of life.
Eulji Dabang, a relic of that era, has rebounded thanks to the attention of Korean boy band BTS, which staged a retro-style photoshoot here in 2021. A pink sign in front now marks thedabangas a shrine to the boy band. The well-lit interior is cheerfully kitsch, replete with artificial flowers and plush orange seating. Expect a strange collision of worlds here, where elderly longtime male patrons might be found alongside giddy female BTS fans.
Eulji Dabang retains its old-school décor, which co-exists with portraits of K-pop group BTS idols
The caffeinated drink of the house is cold instant coffee, which is simple and sweet but refreshing. Other offerings include hot ginger tea, ginseng tea, jujube tea andomija(Schisandra chinensis berry)juice. Holding court at the cashier is proprietor Park Ok-bun, a chatty woman with a warm smile. When asked about similar establishments, she exclaims, “They’ve all disappeared!”
Getting there:Emerge fromExit 10 of Euljiro 4-ga Station and look for the hot-pink signboard.
ReRePlay (2021)
Discover a hidden heritage spot
Almost impossible to stumble upon by chance, ReRePlay is nestled deep within a narrow alley in a neighbourhood dominated by stores hawking furniture and kitchen equipment. Though it was actually quite recently opened, ReRePlay occupies an old space that oozes personality. Interior designer Yoon I-seo applied a series of light touches to a formeryeoinsuk(a type of Korean lodging akin to a cheap motel). For instance, she left much of the time-worn wooden ceilings intact while adding discrete, compact lighting fixtures. The result is a work of art that has been featured in local lifestyle magazines likeMaison Marie Claire Korea.
The leafy fig tree at ReRePlay stretches up from an irregularly shaped central yardSoban (traditional Korean tea tables) on ReRePlay's second level
Filled with odd-angled walls and faded tiles, the coffee shop centers on a small atrium with a fig tree. Floor seating is available on the second level for those who want to relax at asoban(traditional wooden tea table). The minimalistic décor and gently pulsating electronic music create a soothing atmosphere perfect for an afternoon cuppa. Its menu features hand-drip coffee and organic teas.
Getting there:From Exit 1 of Sindang Station, double back, turn left at the first street and duck into the alley beside the corner seafood restaurant. Turn left into the adjoining alley.
Taegeukdang (1946)
For espresso with a side of patriotism
Almost certainly the oldest café and bakery in Seoul, Taegeukdang opened soon after Korea’s liberation from Japanese occupation. Both the name (“House of the Yin-yang Symbol”) and the logo (a stylized rose of Sharon, South Korea’s national flower) reflect the founder’s patriotic leanings.
Taegeukdang serves espresso along with old-style dabang coffee, matcha latte and other drinksRoll cakes and other confections are also available for purchase at Taegeukdang
Based near Namsan Mountain, this charmingly old-fashioned institution is an ideal stop after a walk in Seoul’s largest park. You’ll recognise it by the Chinese characters on the façade. Order a cinnamon white or oat latte from the café counter before settling down at a table to admire the marble flooring and bas relief of General Lee Sun-sin battling Japan’s navy four centuries ago. If you’re hungry, try one of their signature red bean buns.
Taegeukdang has small branches in The Hyundai department store, Seoul Station and other spots, but it would be a shame not to visit its original location.
Getting there:Step out of Exit 2 of Dongguk University Station.
Hakrim (1956)
A favourite hang-out for generations of students
Situated above a pharmacy in a low brick building is Hakrim (“Study Forest”), a hand-drip coffee haven that’s also a historical site. The business has long drawn students from the universities in the Hyehwa-dong neighbourhood. Wind your way up the creaky wooden stairs and you’ll be greeted by shelves of ancient LP records, black and white photos of classical maestros, a bust of Beethoven and a selection of comfy booth tables. The space’s charming allure has made it a choice filming location for K-dramas such asMy Love from the Star. Try their popular espresso con panna, which is crowned with a thick dollop of whipped cream. The menu also includes teas, alcohol and cheesecake.
Getting there:From Exit 3 of Hyehwa Station, turn 180 degrees and walk about 100m.
Well-loved booth seats at Hakrim. Photo: Korea Tourism OrganisationHakrim's extensive record collection. Photo: Korea Tourism Organisation
To learn more about Singapore Airlines’ flights to Seoul, visit the official website. All photos by Matthew Crawford unless otherwise stated.
As tradition gives way to modern life, many sunset trades are destined to fade into the pages of our history books. Such is particularly the case in fast-paced Singapore, where the cost of living is high and space comes at a premium. The lack of an agricultural hinterland means that the raw materials commonly needed for traditional crafts also grow increasingly challenging to obtain.
Fortunately, a crop of young artisans are finding new ways to keep these invaluable cultural practices alive. Some of them pursue these passions outside of their day jobs, while others have devoted their career to their craft. Hear from four of them here, and find out where you might try your hand at these crafts too.
Ng Siying, rattan artisan
On the table sits a teapot with a beautiful handle made of woven rattan. Pouring a warm cup of hojicha from it, 30-year-old product designerNg Siyingshares her affection for Mr Chen and Mdm Lee of Chun Mee Lee Rattan Furniture. She spent a year learning the art of rattan from the couple. What had begun as an unexpected post-graduation residency sent Ng down a rabbit hole of discovering this humble material’s charm and relevance in contemporary society.
Ng Siying in her home-studio. Photo: Jonathan TanA weaving from Ng's series, Rattan Combinations, which explores rattan in conversation with other handmade materials. Photo: Ng Siying
Rattan is a material derived from the stem of the climbing palm, once commonly used for furniture and handicrafts in Southeast Asia. Singapore’s rattan trade boomed between the 1960s to 1980s, due to the quality craftsmanship of its makers, and Singapore’s position as a regional research centre for this material. But the changing times of the 1990s led to dwindling consumer interests, and eventually, rattan’s decline.
Ng seeks to expand the functional and aesthetic possibilities of rattan, and take it beyond a medium of nostalgia
Ng seeks to expand the functional and aesthetic possibilities of rattan from where the industry left off decades ago, and take it beyond a medium of nostalgia. The results are multiple experimentalseries, including Rattan as Wrap (2017–2021) and Rattan as Weave (2021–ongoing). “I have to keep learning from different sources and disciplines. It expands my view of what rattan can be, so that we don’t look at it as only a piece of furniture,” says Ng.
“For me, it’s about elevating rattan. When I was at the rattan shop, even though I like the material, I feel that a lot of the furniture there is dated. Our living circumstances have since changed, but the design of rattan has by and large remained the same,” she elaborates.
As the resident cats, Fungus and Gingko, bask gloriously under the midday sun, a piece that Ng has been reworking awaits its eventual form. From within the walls of her bedroom, Ng weaves a new chapter of rattan.
Ng’s two cats, Fungus and Gingko, relaxing on her work desk
Jeanette Adrienne Wee, ceramicist
“The sweatshop is here,” 32-year-old Jeanette Adrienne Wee declares with a big, proud smile. The late afternoon air in this semi-outdoor studio is humid, but around her, mounds of clay are being lovingly moulded, baked and glazed into unique vessels.
Jeanette Adrienne Wee at Ves.studio, after a day of conducting workshops
Conditions of pottery-making have not been the same since the disappearance of dragon kilns in Singapore in the 90s. The mid-20th century witnessed the boom of the pottery industry, fuelled by the flourishing rubber plantations – more than 20 of these high-capacity brick-built dragon kilns fired like clockwork to supply earthenware for rubber tapping. As plantations shrank, so did the commercial demand for pottery.
When asked about pottery as a dying trade, Wee counters that it has instead experienced a revival thanks to social media. “Pottery is visual. It’s big on ‘flow’ to make something from start to finish, and that takes very well with social media. For better or worse, it’s gotten a lot of traction and that has helped us with our business. People are now more aware of how ceramics are made.”
Wee has been honing the craft and developing a distinct style in her personal practice. She’s also the co-founder of pottery and homeware studio, Ves.studio. Having apprenticed with Singapore’s Cultural Medallion recipient Iskandar Jalil and completed residencies in Japan and Korea, she now imparts knowledge to her students and studio assistants in a similarly rigorous fashion.
“Perfect imperfection comes from honing skills. It’s not an accident. That’s what I tell my students – I know you made the effort to make the cup, but if it’s not a good cup, it’s not a good cup. We need to take a hammer, smash it in the back, throw it away and move on,” she asserts.
Perfect imperfection comes from honing skills. It’s not an accident
“Sometimes my students would ask how I can do certain things. It’s very hard to teach. It took me years to get the flow right. To create a texture that isn’t contrived is a skill. You really need to practise.”It is this belief that keeps Wee returning to the wheel day after day, and becoming a student all over again, too.
Artworks in the studio from Wee’s personal practice
Fajrina Razak, batik artist
As the day cools, Fajrina Razak is one of the few souls lingering around Telok Kurau Studios (TKS), Singapore’sfirst and oldest arts housing project. This is where the 34-year-old practises her beloved art of batik, which she sees as a way to reconnect with her Javanese roots and spirituality. “I have always wanted to do batik since art school, but didn’t have a chance to. The desire of wanting to understand the medium, to learn about my own identity came from there,” Razak recalls. She eventually found her way into the art form by connecting with senior artists from the only Malay art association in Singapore, Angkatan Pelukis Aneka Daya (Apad).
Fajrina Razak sorting through her batik paintings in the studio
Singapore’s multi-layered relationship with batikis epitomised by the sarong kebaya uniform of the Singapore Girl. Yet, despite its cultural and diplomatic significance, Singapore largely serves as aentrepôtfor batik to be distributed to other corners of the world. Local interest in the material also skews more towards batik as a fashion statement than towards the techniques of the craft, which originated in the 1600s.
Razak’s own commitment in batik transcends fashion and aesthetics. Since picking up the medium, she has in turn nurtured her own communities and developed ecosystems to keep the craft alive. Apart from teaching, exhibiting, curating and taking on leadership positions in both TKS and Apad, Razak also founded405 Art Residencyback in December 2020. She invites emerging artists to share her studio and experiment with batik in relation to their individual practices, through this residency programme.
“Although batik is known as a medium originating from Java, it has a varied and storied history worldwide,” she explains. “This prompted me to extend the medium to more diverse artists, as a reflection of Singapore’s multiculturalism as well.”
Traditional copper batik stamps on display in Razak’s studio
Kim Choy, chairmaker
In an age where technology reigns supreme, 38-year-old Kim Choy went against the grain by leaving his job as a web programmer for a craft-based practice at 29. He has always enjoyed the tactile nature of woodworking, so he completed a chair-making course in Melbourne, Australia, and turned his hobby into a career.The transition took guts – and also parts of two of his fingers when he got into a nasty table saw accident. He eventually decided to focus solely on chair-making, since these particular forms do not require the use of the offending equipment. Undeterred by the accident, he founded Shibui Furniture Collective in 2019, and has been perfecting his craft ever since.
Kim Choy against the backdrop of his studio, filled with an assortment of chairs, stools and benches to be admired and sat on
A craftsman should be able to make one chair, and the tenth chair should still look the same. This is where your skill lies
Furniture making and restoration used to be a flourishing business in Singapore prior to the 1980s – but as rents skyrocketed and the local workforce increasingly pursued desk-bound jobs, it too met the same fate as other traditional handicraft trades. These days, those seeking to decorate their homes are far likelier to grab chairs off the rack from the neighbourhood IKEA. Yet, chair-makers like Choy insist on the intangible value and rewarding process of making each chair by hand.
“When people talk about handcrafted furniture, they get the idea that everything one-off is beautiful,” he says. “But a craftsman should be able to make one chair, and the tenth chair should still look the same. This is where your skill lies.” It’s perhaps ironic that an artisan should pursue a consistency which mass production is easily able to achieve, but the devotion and meticulousness that he puts into each handmade piece is certainly of a different standard.
Choy working on a shaving horse, shaping a chair leg. Photo: Louis KwokChairs and stool from Choy's 'Eponymous' collection. Photo: Shibui Furniture Collective
These days, Choy shares his hard-earned expertise with students who sign up for hischair-making workshops. Keeping the classes small, Choy takes them through the process, history and cultural contexts of chair-making, inspiring greater thought about this ubiquitous object. When one walks out of his studio, perhaps even the red plastic chair in the coffeeshop might sit a little differently.
Where to experience these crafts in Singapore
Shibui Furniture Collective: Craft your own chair, stool or bench using traditional chair-making techniques taught by Choy.
Potter’s Guilt: Those seeking a more extensive course may look to Wee’s classes at Ves.studio, but if you’re only visiting Singapore for a short time, explore a taster session at Potter’s Guilt.
Ozel: Try your hand at batik at Ozel’s studio in the historic Kampong Glam neighbourhood.
To learn more about Singapore Airlines’ flights to Singapore, visit the official website. Hero image by Jonathan Tan.All other photos by Woong Soak Teng unless otherwise stated.
Ng Yu Hsuan has enjoyed travelling for as long as she can remember – in fact, her childhood dream was to become a travel host. Today, as a leading stewardess with Singapore Airlines, she gets to do exactly that – and so much more.
“I love travelling! I have an adventurous spirit that drives me to explore the world. I want to live passionately and deeply, with no regrets,” she declares. Fittingly, her career has vastly broadened her horizons, and in more ways than one.
Hanging by the bow-shaped bar, I nurse the last of my mocktail, a liquid rainbow of roselle, lemongrass, mint and passion fruit. The hushed lounge is an unapologetic manifestation of nostalgia for the early 20th century. Rattan blinds and creamy curtains ensconce secluded corners. Dried tropical flowers spring from earthenware vases. As if part of the furniture, two dapper Englishmen perch opposite – though they grumble over laptop screens, not newspapers.
I watch as Tien, the waistcoated bartender, prepares their order: iced milk coffee and hot green tea. After delivering the drinks he pivots to ask if I’d like another Locomotion. I decline the second mocktail, so Tien offers a shoulder treatment instead. “Sure,” I say, and he beckons the masseur.
It may feel like some swanky boutique city hotel, but I’m actually rattling through the countryside on Vietnam’s colonial-era railway network. The Vietage is an uber-luxury train carriage launched by Minor International and affixed to Vietnam’s national line. It’s meant to ease access to Quy Nhon, where the hospitality group has one of its flagship properties:Anantara Quy Nhon Villas. The journey takes around six hours and has two daily departures: Danang to Quy Nhon in the morning (my journey) and Quy Nhon to Danang in the evening.
The crescent-shaped bar aboard The Vietage. Photo: The Vietage
Quy Nhon – an unhurried beachside city ringed by green hills – is an alluring destination, but accessing it takes patience. Only flights from Vietnam’s major cities serve Phu Cat Airport, which is almost an hour from downtown Quy Nhon. Entering via Highway 1, the undulant tarmac connecting the city to the rest of the country, can churn stomachs. “Travelling a long distance by road in Vietnam is, shall we say, not an ideal experience,” laughs Erik Billgren, general manager of The Vietage.
Train journeys through Vietnam past and present
Perks of the carriage may include coffees, cocktails and a micro massage parlour, but I was drawn to The Vietage because it rekindled my passion for train travel. I moved to Vietnam in 2008, long before budget domestic airlines had taken off. Flights were expensive and buses were cramped, so I moved up and down the country by rail. As it is for many others, this threadbare railway network was my ticket to Vietnam’s cinematic countryside. “Travelling by train can be a bit uncomfortable,” says Nguyen Dang, a Ho Chi Minh City-based trainspotter and fellow railways enthusiast, “but the major advantage is that passengers enjoy the scenery along the way.”
The cosy two-person compartments. Photo: The Vietage
Some of my favourite journeys include Vinh to Dong Hoi, a route etched through mountain-flanked valleys studded with church spires, and Hue to Danang, where the train skirts farmed lagoons before scaling the dizzying Hai Van mountain pass. A provincial anthem would crackle over the speakers when we arrived in a new city. At each station, overloaded families would schlep cumbersome cardboard boxes on and off the train. Some stations (gain Vietnamese, from the Frenchgare) are pretty, ramshackle colonial remnants, such as those of Hue and Hai Phong. Others, most notably the bombed Hanoi Railway Station, are a bizarre blend of pre- and post-war architecture.
A provincial anthem would crackle over the speakers when we arrived in a new city. At each station, overloaded families would schlep cumbersome cardboard boxes on and off the train
Interactions always left an impression. One middle-aged woman boasted that food was one of the highlights of the journey, and force-fed me rice porridge, steamed buns and cold popcorn. Another time, a ticket inspector shooed me away from the restaurant carriage so that he and his colleagues could down beers away from disapproving eyes. At the time I was living in Hue, a province with expansive flats leading to the Truong Son mountain range. Watching the dawn sun illuminate distant mountains from inside a train carriage still arouses a feeling of homecoming.
The scenery in Quang Nam, Quang Ngai and Binh Dinh, the three provinces that The Vietage clatters through, is not dissimilar. After the shoulder massage, I retire to my private compartment and gaze out the window. While American bombs ripped apart much of central Vietnam in the 1960s and 70s, Quang Nam was somewhat spared. Disused whistle-stop stations sit frozen in time. Pretty villages speckled with spindly palm trees emerge like islands in a sea of green rice paddies. I catch glimpses of wrinkled women tending flower gardens in front of centenarian houses.
The micro-massage parlour. Photo: The Vietage
A (very) brief history of the Reunification Express
While savouring the train experience, it’s all too easy to ignore the railway’s tumultuous beginnings. The French colonial administration began laying tracks in the late 19th century, but funding and engineering issues plagued the project from the outset. Traversing Vietnam’s jungles, rivers and mountains was no small feat.
There are also reports of elephant herds derailing trains and ripping up track. Recruiting labour proved a problem, so the French conscripted poor farmers, many of whom died from overwork and exhaustion. It wasn’t until 1936 that Hanoi and Saigon (now Ho Chi Minh City) – Vietnam’s two biggest cities – were finally connected by rail.
The link didn’t last long, however. During the fight for independence in the 1940s and 50s, anti-colonial groups like the Viet Minh routinely sabotaged the railway. Vietnam was divided in two in 1954, spurring a messy war that lasted two decades. Unfortunately for the railway infrastructure, the tracks, bridges and stations proved easy targets for American bombers, who supported the South, and Viet Cong explosive teams that fought for the North.
By the time Vietnam emerged from war as a unified country in 1975, the railway was a twisted tangle of steel. “When I give talks on the subject,” says Ho Chi Minh City-based historian Tim Doling, author ofThe Railways and Tramways of Việt Nam, “I say that it’s a minor miracle anything still exists.”
“I don’t think we can underestimate how powerful the symbolism of restoring the entire North-South line to operation was back in 1976”
A functional railway exists in Vietnam due to the country’s tenacious reconstruction efforts. When the war ended, the Vietnamese began repairing stations, bridges and tunnels across the country. In 1976, little more than a year after the end of the conflict, a train left Hanoi for Ho Chi Minh City – the first such journey in decades. While officially named the North-South Railway, it’s often referred to in English as the Reunification Express. “I don’t think we can underestimate how powerful the symbolism of restoring the entire North-South line to operation was back in 1976,” says Doling.
The Banh It Towers just outside of Quy Nhon. Photo: Anantara
End of the line: Is Quy Nhon Vietnam’s next big thing?
As I polish off a three-course lunch – Quy Nhon seafood salad, Hoi An chicken rice and Dalat strawberries – a crumbling brick structure comes into view. The centuries-old Cham civilisation built lofty Hindu temple towers like this on hills across central Vietnam. The most impressive towers punctuate the countryside around Quy Nhon, once the site of the ancient Cham capital of Vijaya, so the city must be close.
Traditionally, visitors bypass this corner of Vietnam, opting instead for the broad coastlines and heritage sites of Danang and Hoi An. But as these more popular destinations grapple with mismanagement and overtourism, some have started to look further afield. Quy Nhon, with its overlooked beaches, fishing villages and Cham towers, was poised to become Vietnam’s next big thing, but the Covid-19 pandemic derailed the city’s international popularity. Perhaps now with The Vietage, Quy Nhon’s rising celebrity is back on track.
The dramatic coastline surrounding Quy Nhon. Photo: Anantara
Things to do in Quy Nhon
Unearth the Cham Towers:It’s possible to spend a full day hunting for the Cham Towers near Quy Nhon. They’re all special in their own way, but the most impressive are the towers of Banh It, Duong Long and Phu Loc.
Relive a rebellion:The Quang Trung Museum recounts the epic tale of Nguyen Hue, who led a successful rebellion against 18th century tyrants, through magnificent wall murals.
Lose yourself in the fishing villages:There are a handful of labyrinthine fishing villages close to Quy Nhon. Bai Xep is one of the closer villages – and it borders a pretty beach.
To learn more about Singapore Airlines’ flights to Da Nang, visit the official website.
The annual Formula One night race inSingaporeis perhaps one of the most electrifying events of the year – a high-octane affair, this first and only nighttime F1 track attracted a record-breaking 302,000 visitors in 2022.But there is also plenty of off-track excitement to be had. Key among these highlights are performances by Robbie Williams, Post Malone and Kings Of Leon at six stages across the track area. Additionally, spectators can also visit theSIA F1 Fan Villageand take part in unique race-themed activities and snag some exclusive merch. Here’s what you can look forward to.
Experience adrenaline pumping race-themed activities on the simulators
Short of hopping into an actual race car, the immersive F1 Racing Car Simulator is just about as close as you can get to the real thing. The simulator is complete with a race-style bucket seat, steering wheel with paddle shifters and vivid curved screen that will draw you in.
Put pedal to metal in this thrilling F1 simulator. Photo: Singapore Airlines
If you’re after a more whimsical approach to off-track fun, try the Bike Simulator instead. This ride allows you to pedal your way to victory in a unique take on Mario Kart. Your speed is controlled by pedaling the bike and you steer using the handlebars.
Hop on the bike simulator for a whimsical journey. Photo: Singapore Airlines
To be a championship F1 driver, you’ll need both agility and quick reflexes – put your skills to the test at the Blazepod and Baton Agility stations. At the Blazepod, competitors must hit pods that light up across a map depicting Singapore Airlines destinations. At the agility station, guests are tasked with catching batons that are rigged to drop at random.
Put your reflexes to the test in this unique Blazepod challenge. Photo: Singapore Airlines
Take a selfie with SQ cabin crew
The SIA F1 Fan Village also offers a photo booth where you can snap a commemorative photo with Singapore Airlines cabin crew, dressed up in the iconic blue kebaya of course!
Commemorate your F1 experience with a special photo with SQ cabin crew. Photo: Singapore Airlines
Pick up some exclusive F1 merchandise with KrisShop
Interested in picking up some Singapore Airlines F1 merchandise? Stop by the KrisShop display to check out souvenirs such as jerseys, baseball caps, drinking glasses and other commemorative items. If you see something that catches your eye, you may purchase it usingKrisShop’s handy online store and have it delivered either to your doorstep (for Singapore residents) or to your departure gate (for travellers).
Stop by the KrisShop display to check out some F1 exclusive merchandise. Photo: Singapore Airlines
Snag your complimentary F1 swag
Visitors to the SIA F1 Fan Village will also be treated to themed gifts. This special selection includes F1-themed swag like a foldable fan, foldable nylon bag and a Welcome to World Class lanyard for your F1 pass.
Book your F1 experience with Pelago for a host of perks
Haven’t got your tickets for the Formula 1 Singapore Airlines Grand Prix 2023? Pelago is offering exclusive3-Day passes for the Turn 1 Grandstand (with access to all zones). This premier pass is already sold out on the Singapore Grand Prix website and only available to Pelago users.
In addition to the three miles per dollar to be earned with this purchase, new Pelago users will also get 5,000 bonus KrisFlyer miles! The offer is valid until 17 September 2023.
Looking for a deep-dive into the world of craft soju, cheongju and takju? Look no further than this modern Korean restaurant and bar on upscale Tras Street. ANJU introduces guests to a premium range of Korean tipples, many of which are exclusive to the restaurant. Complementing this adventurous drinking experience is a menu of anju – traditional accompaniments to drinks in Korea. Try the hogam jeon, a savoury pancake made with potato and vegetables that’s dipped into a pickled onion sauce and optionally served with stringy mozzarella cheese – this pairs perfectly with the premium makgeolli that’s served only at ANJU. Other favourites include an abalone pasta and bossam (a traditional braised pork belly dish) that pairs well with the go yuja liquor, a citrus fruit wine with a sweet and tangy flavour profile.
Crafted by Peter Zwiener is a casual eatery with an elegant vibe, inspired by the bistros of New York City. Set in the glittering South Beach Avenue, in Singapore’s Civic District, the restaurant features retro-chic interiors with red high chairs, splashes of turquoise and refined wood surfaces. The menu here is a showcase of farm-to-table dishes, made with ingredients that are sustainably harvested, hunted, fished or gathered – a reflection of the chef’s childhood on his family’s farm. This ethos is best represented in dishes like the miso cod and the sous vide corn-fed chicken leg. For drinks, you’ll have a selection of signature cocktails to choose from, along with the classics and a selection of craft beers on tap.
There are more than 700 hotels in New York City, so the options are quite literally endless. From party hotspots to over-the-top luxury to sustainable sanctuaries, you can find it all in the city that never sleeps. The perfect hotel for any given trip depends on who you’re with and what you’re doing, but here are seven top picks for all different types of travellers.
1 Hotel Brooklyn Bridge
For hip environmentalists
Sustainability is at the core of every design decision at 1 Hotel Brooklyn Bridge, a natural extension of the Brooklyn Bridge Park with incredible views of the iconic structure from Harriet’s outdoor rooftop bar and plunge pool. An 8m green wall and farmstand with free fruit greets guests in the lobby and there are plants in every guest room, along with reclaimed wood furniture, filtered water stations and floor-to-ceiling windows letting in plenty of natural light. The organic ethos extends to the in-room bath amenities and products used at its Bamford Wellness Spa too. Eco-friendly has never looked so chic.
What’s nearby: Walk along Water Street for gorgeous views and treats from local favourites like Butler for coffee and pastries, Oddfellows for ice cream and Gair for craft cocktails.
Bridge view king guest room. Photo: 1 Hotel Brooklyn BridgeHarriet's Lounge at 1 Hotel Brooklyn Bridge. Photo: 1 Hotel Brooklyn Bridge
Baccarat Hotel
For fancy foodies
All 114 guest rooms and suites at Baccarat Hotel are generously sized for the Big Apple. Naturally, the custom-designed Baccarat red enamel mini bar is a highlight, as well as Baccarat crystal stemware that elevate your in-room drinking experience. There’s even a “champagne” button on the telephone handset to request your favourite vintage in signature Baccarat flutes. Alsatian Michelin-starred chef Gabriel Kreuther oversees the hotel’s food and beverage, and the hotel is also home to the first La Mer spa in the United States.
What’s nearby: A couple blocks away is Rockefeller Plaza, which has a slew of great restaurants that have opened in the last couple of years, from Tipsy Baker by Café D’Avignon to NARO for elegant Korean cuisine by the same power couple behind Atomix, the best restaurant in North America in 2023 according to World’s 50 Best.
Baccarat suite living room. Photo: Baccarat Hotel
Smyth Tribeca
For savvy sophisticates
Smyth Tribeca is an unassuming favourite among Hollywood stars, especially during the Tribeca Film Festival. Jessica Alba, Jake Gyllenhaal and Ed Westwick have all been spotted on the property. The 100-room boutique hotel is in a hip part of town but feels quiet and residential, a peaceful oasis tucked away amidst cobblestone streets. Rooms are comfortable, with floor-to-ceiling windows, oversized marble bathrooms and views of lower Manhattan. There’s even complimentary movie theater-style popcorn in the lobby.
What’s nearby: Some of the best fine dining in the city is within walking distance, including Michelin-starred restaurants like l’abeille, Jungsik, Atera and New York’s most exclusive new omakase counter – Sushi Ichimura.
Penthouse terrace suite living room. Photo: Smyth Tribeca / Holly ChildsOne World Trade Center view from outside Smyth Tribeca. Photo: Smyth Tribeca
The Times Square EDITION
For theatre buffs
This Yabu Pushelberg-designed hotel includes 452 guest rooms in New York City’s entertainment district, plus 26 suites with outdoor terraces overlooking Times Square. Catching an evening Broadway show? Head to The Times Square EDITION’s terrace and lushly landscaped outdoor gardens for a pre-theatre prix-fixe menu by chef John Fraser prior heading out. Alternatively, stop by Paradise Club to catch eclectic acts ranging from cabaret, theatre and circus acts to illusionists, opera, live gospel and aerial performances.
What’s nearby: Just around the corner from the hotel is TKTS Times Square, the best place to get last-minute Broadway tickets, including same-day performances at up to half off full price.
The lush Terrace, located within The Times Square EDITION. Photo: Nikolas Koenig
Ritz-Carlton New York, NoMad
For modern business travellers
Historically, most business travellers have stayed in Midtown, but the new Ritz-Carlton New York, NoMad offers a more vibrant, modern alternative with all of the luxurious trappings you’d expect from the brand, including an excellent club lounge and surprisingly personalised service for a hotel with 219 guest rooms, 31 suites and 14 penthouse residences. Entertain clients at José Andrés’ Mediterranean ground-floor restaurant Zaytinya, or over a drink and breathtaking city views at Nubeluz rooftop cocktail bar. Décor here is floral and feminine, inspired by the hotel’s location in New York’s flower district. Business travellers will appreciate the Cadillac Lyriq house car, which is available to take hotel guests within a 2-mile radius.
What’s nearby: Incredible deals on designer clothing from brands like Maison Margiela and Fleur du Mal at 260 Sample Sale’s flagship store.
The Ritz-Carlton New York, NoMad lobby has floral motifs and a plush jungle vibe. Photo: The Ritz-Carlton New York NoMad
Hotel Barrière Fouquet’s New York
For Parisian princesses
Hotel Barrière Fouquet’s New York is the first United States outpost of France’s family-run Groupe Barrière, with 65 residential-style rooms and 29 suites by designer Martin Brudnizki. The hotel blends modern industrialism with Art Deco motifs and a dash of pink everywhere. Patrons of the hotel in Paris will recognise the brand’s signature scent, and the brasserie menu that chef Pierre Gagnaire oversees at Fouquet’s, with classics like escargot, foie gras and sole meunière. The gilded Cannes cinema room is used for film premieres and special screenings, and the hotel aims to become a hub for French culture in New York.
Don’t miss: The hotel’s new sprawling rooftop space, Le Vaux, is inspired by the French gardens of Vaux-Le-Vicomte and Versailles and open daily, exclusively to hotel guests.
The living area of the hotel’s prestige junior suite. Photo: Hotel Barrière Fouquet’s New York
TWA Hotel
For aviation enthusiasts
The only on-airport hotel at New York’s JFK International Airport, TWA Hotel pays homage to air travel’s glory days. It celebrates Trans World Airlines’ history as one of the largest airlines in the United States by restoring TWA’s 1962 Flight Center into a 512-room hotel with views of JFK’s runways. Museum exhibits detail the history of aviation and Mid-Century Modern design movement. Sip retro cocktails with vintage swizzle sticks in the sunken lounge, or play a wall-to-wall version of Twister in the Twister Room.
Don’t miss: The 930m2 fitness centre is perhaps the world’s largest hotel gym, open 24 hours a day so you can get your sweat on before you board your flight. There’s a yoga studio, 14 Peloton bikes, boxing classes, personal training and more.
TWA’s Executive King Suite with a historic view. Photo: TWA Hotel
To learn more about Singapore Airlines’ flights to New York, visit the official website.
